How we scored it
How it’s made
Where it comes from
Palm-derived stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 20 mol petrochemical ethylene oxide.
Steareth-20 is a non-ionic surfactant belonging to the polyoxyethylene ether family. Its synthesis involves the ethoxylation of stearyl alcohol (C18H37OH). The process typically occurs in a batch reactor under controlled conditions.
Stearyl alcohol, the starting material, is first dried and then reacted with ethylene oxide (EO) in the presence of a catalyst. Common catalysts include alkaline catalysts such as potassium hydroxide (KOH) or sodium hydroxide (NaOH). The reaction is carried out at elevated temperatures, generally ranging from 120°C to 180°C, and under pressure, typically between 2 to 6 bar, to maintain ethylene oxide in a liquid state and ensure efficient reaction.
The reaction is an addition polymerization where ethylene oxide molecules sequentially add to the hydroxyl group of stearyl alcohol. The '20' in Steareth-20 indicates the average number of ethylene oxide units added per molecule of stearyl alcohol. This average is controlled by the molar ratio of ethylene oxide to stearyl alcohol used in the reaction. The reaction is exothermic and requires careful temperature control to prevent runaway reactions and ensure product consistency.
Following the ethoxylation, the reaction mixture is typically neutralized to remove the alkaline catalyst. This is often achieved by adding an acid, such as acetic acid or phosphoric acid. The crude product is then purified to remove unreacted starting materials, catalyst residues, and by-products. Purification steps may include filtration, vacuum stripping to remove volatile impurities, and sometimes bleaching to improve color. The final product is a waxy solid or viscous liquid, depending on the exact degree of ethoxylation and purity.
In plain English
Steareth-20 is a type of ingredient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products to help mix oil and water-based ingredients, making them work together smoothly. Think of it like a bridge that allows oil and water, which normally don't mix, to form a stable blend, like in lotions or creams.
It's made by chemically reacting a fatty alcohol called stearyl alcohol with ethylene oxide. Stearyl alcohol is a fatty substance, and ethylene oxide is a chemical building block. The '20' in its name tells us that, on average, 20 units of ethylene oxide are attached to each molecule of stearyl alcohol. This process is done under specific temperature and pressure conditions using a catalyst. The resulting Steareth-20 helps create the desired texture and stability in products like conditioners, cleansers, and moisturizers.
CosIng definition: Poly(oxy-1,2-ethanediyl), .alpha.-octadecyl-.omega.-hydroxy
Natural alternatives with the same function
Cetearyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol commonly used in skincare and haircare products. Think of it…
Cetearyl Glucoside 100% natural originCetearyl Glucoside is a gentle emulsifier that helps to blend oil and water in cosmetic products, creating smooth…
Cetyl Alcohol 100% natural originCetyl alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol, which are ingredients commonly found in skincare and haircare products.…
Glyceryl Stearate 100% natural originGlyceryl Stearate is a common ingredient found in many skincare and cosmetic products, acting as a multi-functional helper.…
Hydrogenated Lecithin 100% natural originHydrogenated lecithin is a modified form of lecithin, a natural substance found in many foods like egg yolks…
Lauryl Glucoside 100% natural originLauryl glucoside is a type of cleansing ingredient, often called a surfactant, that helps to lift dirt and…
References
- 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
- 2STEARETH-20. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
- 3STEARETH-20. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=STEARETH-20