How we scored it
Where it comes from
The crosslinked backbone is petrochemical acrylic acid with a synthetic crosslinker (e.g., allyl pentaerythritol); the C10-30 comonomer is typically a coconut- or tallow-derived fatty alcohol acrylate ester. Exact comonomer ratio is proprietary and varies by grade (e.g., Carbopol/Pemulen-type products), so this uses an assumed typical loading.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer produced via free-radical polymerization. The process involves the copolymerization of acrylic acid with a long-chain alkyl acrylate monomer, such as lauryl acrylate, myristyl acrylate, cetyl acrylate, or stearyl acrylate, where the alkyl chain length is between 10 and 30 carbon atoms. A crosslinking agent, typically an allyl ether of a polyol like pentaerythritol or an allyl ether of sucrose, is also included in the reaction mixture. This crosslinker introduces branching points into the polymer chain, creating a three-dimensional network structure. The polymerization is usually carried out in an aqueous medium or an organic solvent, often initiated by thermal initiators like peroxides or azo compounds, or by redox systems. Reaction temperatures typically range from 50°C to 90°C, depending on the initiator system and solvent used. The process requires careful control of monomer ratios, initiator concentration, and reaction time to achieve the desired molecular weight and crosslinking density. After polymerization, the polymer is typically neutralized with a base, such as sodium hydroxide or aminomethyl propanol, to form a neutralized polymer dispersion or powder. Purification steps may involve filtration to remove unreacted monomers or byproducts, and drying if a solid form is desired. The resulting crosspolymer is known for its excellent thickening and stabilizing properties in aqueous systems.
In plain English
Think of this ingredient as a special kind of plastic that's been designed to make your cosmetic products thicker and more stable. It's made by linking together smaller chemical building blocks, much like connecting LEGO bricks to build a larger structure. These building blocks are derived from oil, making it a synthetic ingredient. The unique way these blocks are connected creates a network that can absorb water and swell, giving lotions, creams, and gels their desired consistency and preventing them from separating over time.
CosIng definition: C10-30 alkyl propenoate, polymer with propenoic acid, butenoic acidand/or alkyl propenoates, product with propenyl sucrose ether or propenyl 2,2-dihydroxymethyl-1,3-propanediol
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References
- 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
- 2ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
- 3ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=ACRYLATES/C10-30%20ALKYL%20ACRYLATE%20CROSSPOLYMER