Database/Humectant/Hyaluronic Acid
100% natural origin · ISO 16128

Is Hyaluronic Acid natural?

Yes. Hyaluronic acid is produced by streptococcal or Bacillus fermentation of a plant-sugar substrate, a fully natural-origin route.

INCI nameHyaluronic Acid
CAS9004-61-9
FunctionHumectant · Skin Conditioning Agent
FeedstockHyaluronic Acid is manufactured today mainly by microbial…

How we scored it

Repeating D-glucuronic acid/N-acetylglucosamine disaccharide from microbial fermentation of a sugar substrate; every atom carbohydrate-derived, so NOI = 1.0.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

Where it comes from

Hyaluronic Acid is manufactured today mainly by microbial (Streptococcus or Bacillus) fermentation of plant-derived sugar feedstocks. An older extraction route from rooster combs is also natural-origin but now a minor share of supply.

Hyaluronic acid (HA), also known as sodium hyaluronate in its salt form, is primarily produced through microbial fermentation. This biotechnological process involves culturing specific strains of bacteria, most commonly *Streptococcus zooepidemicus* or *Bacillus subtilis*, in a controlled environment.

The fermentation medium is typically composed of a carbon source (like glucose or sucrose), a nitrogen source (such as yeast extract or peptones), and essential minerals and growth factors. The bacteria metabolize these nutrients and synthesize HA intracellularly or extracellularly, depending on the strain and process.

Following fermentation, the HA is separated from the bacterial biomass and fermentation broth. This purification process is critical and involves several steps. Initially, the biomass is removed through centrifugation or filtration. Subsequently, precipitation is often employed, using organic solvents like ethanol or isopropanol, to isolate the HA. Further purification steps may include enzymatic treatments to remove nucleic acids and proteins, followed by dialysis or ultrafiltration to remove residual salts and low molecular weight impurities.

The final product is typically obtained as a sodium salt (sodium hyaluronate) and is then dried, often through lyophilization (freeze-drying) or spray-drying, to yield a stable powder. The molecular weight of the HA can be controlled by adjusting fermentation conditions and downstream processing, leading to different grades suitable for various cosmetic applications.

In plain English

Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance found in our skin, joints, and connective tissues. It's famous for its incredible ability to attract and hold onto moisture, acting like a sponge for hydration. In cosmetics, it's used to plump up the skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and provide a smooth, dewy complexion.

References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2HYALURONIC ACID. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  3. 3HYALURONIC ACID. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=HYALURONIC%20ACID