Database/Hair Conditioning Agent/Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Mostly natural · ISO 16128

Is Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride natural?

Mostly. Guar galactomannan (162 Da per sugar unit) carries about 0.2 quaternary hydroxypropyltrimonium groups (30 Da) from petrochemical epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, giving roughly 0.85.

INCI nameGuar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
CAS65497-29-2
FunctionHair Conditioning Agent · Antistatic Agent
FeedstockGuar gum from Cyamopsis seeds etherified with petrochemical…

How we scored it

Giving roughly 0.85.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

How it’s made

Chlorohydrin closes to an epoxide; guar alkoxide opens it (SN2 ×2). Each curved arrow moves one electron pair, and the film ends on the score above.

Where it comes from

Guar gum from Cyamopsis seeds etherified with petrochemical glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride at a low degree of substitution.

The industrial synthesis of Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride involves the chemical modification of guar gum. The process begins with the isolation and purification of guar gum from guar seeds. This natural polymer, a galactomannan, is then reacted with a quaternizing agent, typically 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (EPTAC) or a similar compound.

The reaction is usually carried out in an aqueous alkaline medium. The hydroxyl groups on the guar gum backbone undergo nucleophilic attack by the epoxide ring of EPTAC, leading to the formation of a quaternary ammonium ether linkage. This grafting process introduces cationic charges onto the guar polymer, which is crucial for its conditioning properties.

Key reagents include guar gum, a strong base such as sodium hydroxide to activate the hydroxyl groups, and the quaternizing agent (e.g., EPTAC). The reaction temperature is typically controlled within a moderate range, often between 40-80°C, to optimize the reaction rate and minimize degradation of the guar polymer. The pH is maintained in the alkaline range throughout the reaction.

Following the reaction, the product is neutralized, purified to remove unreacted reagents and byproducts, and then dried. Purification steps may involve filtration, washing, and precipitation. The final product is usually obtained as a powder or a viscous liquid, depending on the degree of substitution and the formulation requirements.

In plain English

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride is a special ingredient derived from two sources: the guar bean and a chemical process. The main part comes from guar gum, a natural thickening agent extracted from the seeds of the guar plant, which grows in arid regions. This natural component gives the ingredient its renewable origin.

To make it work effectively in hair products, this natural guar gum is chemically modified. It's reacted with a synthetic chemical that adds positive charges to the molecule. These positive charges help the ingredient cling to the negatively charged surface of hair, providing conditioning, detangling, and anti-static benefits. Because it uses both a natural plant material and a synthetic chemical, it's considered to be half renewable.

CosIng definition: Guar gum, 2-hydroxy-3-(trimethylammonio)propyl ether, chloride

Natural alternatives with the same function

References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  3. 3GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=GUAR%20HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM%20CHLORIDE