Database/Skin Conditioning Agent/Hydrolyzed Silk
100% natural origin · ISO 16128

Is Hydrolyzed Silk natural?

Yes. Hydrolyzed Silk is produced by hydrolyzing silkworm-cocoon fibroin/sericin protein into natural amino acids and peptide fragments.

INCI nameHydrolyzed Silk
CAS96690-41-4
FunctionSkin Conditioning Agent · Hair Conditioning Agent
FeedstockHydrolyzed Silk is manufactured by acid, alkaline, or…

How we scored it

Hydrolysate of silk fibroin/sericin protein from silkworm cocoons; resulting amino acids and peptides fully natural-origin, so NOI = 1.0.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

Where it comes from

Hydrolyzed Silk is manufactured by acid, alkaline, or enzymatic hydrolysis of silk fibroin/sericin protein from Bombyx mori cocoons. All resulting mass traces to the natural silk protein feedstock.

Hydrolyzed Silk is produced through the controlled breakdown of native silk fibroin protein. This process, known as hydrolysis, involves breaking the peptide bonds that link amino acids together in the protein chain.

The hydrolysis can be achieved using either acidic, alkaline, or enzymatic methods. Acid hydrolysis typically involves heating the silk protein in the presence of a strong acid like hydrochloric acid (HCl) or sulfuric acid (H2SO4) at elevated temperatures (e.g., 100-120°C) for several hours. Alkaline hydrolysis uses strong bases like sodium hydroxide (NaOH) under similar conditions.

Enzymatic hydrolysis is often preferred in the cosmetic industry as it is milder and can offer better control over the degree of hydrolysis, leading to a more consistent product. This method utilizes specific proteases (enzymes that break down proteins) such as papain, bromelain, or trypsin. The reaction is carried out under controlled pH and temperature conditions, typically between 30-60°C, for a specific duration to achieve the desired molecular weight distribution of the resulting silk peptides.

Following hydrolysis, the reaction mixture is typically neutralized, and the hydrolyzed silk peptides are purified. Purification steps may include filtration to remove insoluble material, ion exchange chromatography to remove salts and residual reagents, and potentially ultrafiltration or diafiltration to isolate peptides within a specific molecular weight range. The final product is often a powder or a liquid solution, depending on the downstream processing and intended application.

In plain English

Hydrolyzed Silk is a cosmetic ingredient made from silk, the natural fiber produced by silkworms. Think of it like breaking down a strong silk thread into much smaller pieces, like tiny building blocks called peptides. This process makes the silk easier for your skin and hair to absorb and use.

These tiny silk peptides are created by using natural processes, like enzymes (special proteins that speed up reactions) or mild acids or bases, to carefully break apart the larger silk protein molecules. This controlled breakdown ensures that the resulting ingredient is gentle and effective. The process is designed to yield beneficial components from the silk that can help moisturize, condition, and protect your skin and hair.

CosIng definition: Protein hydrolyzates, silk

References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2HYDROLYZED SILK. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  3. 3HYDROLYZED SILK. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=HYDROLYZED%20SILK