Database/Skin Conditioning Agent/Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
100% natural origin · ISO 16128

Is Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein natural?

Yes. Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein comes from hydrolyzing wheat gluten/protein, a plant feedstock, into natural amino acids and peptides.

INCI nameHydrolyzed Wheat Protein
CAS94350-06-8
FunctionSkin Conditioning Agent · Hair Conditioning Agent
FeedstockHydrolyzed Wheat Protein is manufactured by acid, alkaline,…

How we scored it

Hydrolysate of wheat gluten/protein, a plant feedstock, into amino acids and peptides; entirely natural-origin building blocks, so NOI = 1.0.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

Where it comes from

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein is manufactured by acid, alkaline, or enzymatic hydrolysis of gluten/protein isolated from wheat grain. The finished ingredient is entirely traceable to this plant protein feedstock.

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein is produced through the enzymatic or acid hydrolysis of wheat gluten, which is the protein component of wheat flour. The process begins with the isolation of wheat gluten from wheat flour, typically by washing dough to remove starch and bran. This gluten is then subjected to hydrolysis, a process that breaks down the complex protein chains into smaller, more soluble peptides and amino acids.

Enzymatic hydrolysis is the preferred method in modern cosmetic ingredient production due to its specificity and milder reaction conditions, which help preserve the integrity and functionality of the resulting peptides. Specific enzymes, such as proteases (e.g., papain, bromelain, or microbial proteases), are used to cleave the peptide bonds within the gluten proteins. The reaction is typically carried out in an aqueous medium under controlled temperature (e.g., 40-60°C) and pH conditions, optimized for the chosen enzyme's activity.

Acid hydrolysis is an alternative method, using strong acids like hydrochloric acid at elevated temperatures. However, this method can be less selective, potentially leading to the degradation of some amino acids and a less desirable peptide profile. Regardless of the hydrolysis method, the reaction is stopped by inactivating the enzyme (e.g., by heating) or neutralizing the acid. The resulting hydrolysate is then purified through filtration to remove insoluble matter, and often further processed by techniques like ultrafiltration or chromatography to obtain specific molecular weight fractions or to remove residual reagents and byproducts. The final product is typically a liquid solution or a powder, depending on the downstream processing and drying methods employed.

In plain English

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein is a cosmetic ingredient made from wheat, a common grain. Think of it like breaking down a big, tough piece of cooked meat into smaller, more tender bites. In this case, the wheat's natural proteins are broken down into much smaller pieces called peptides and amino acids.

This breakdown process makes the wheat proteins easier for your skin and hair to absorb and use. These smaller pieces can help to moisturize and condition your skin, making it feel smoother and softer. For hair, they can help to strengthen strands, improve elasticity, and add a protective coating, which can reduce breakage and make hair look shinier.

References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  3. 3Hydrolyzed wheat protein. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=Hydrolyzed%20wheat%20protein