How we scored it
Where it comes from
Hydrolyzed Keratin is manufactured by acid, alkaline, or enzymatic hydrolysis of keratin-rich animal material such as wool or feathers. The process retains only natural protein-derived fragments in the finished ingredient.
Hydrolyzed Keratin is produced through the hydrolysis of keratin, a fibrous structural protein found in hair, feathers, wool, and nails. The process involves breaking down the large keratin molecules into smaller peptides and amino acids, which are more soluble and bioavailable. This is typically achieved through acid, alkaline, or enzymatic hydrolysis.
Acid hydrolysis involves treating the keratin source with strong acids like hydrochloric acid or sulfuric acid at elevated temperatures (e.g., 100-120°C) for several hours. Alkaline hydrolysis uses strong bases such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide under similar conditions. Both methods can lead to some degradation of amino acids and may require neutralization and extensive purification.
Enzymatic hydrolysis is often preferred as it is a milder process, utilizing specific proteases (enzymes that break down proteins) like papain, bromelain, or trypsin. This method typically occurs at moderate temperatures (e.g., 40-60°C) and pH conditions, minimizing damage to the amino acid profile and resulting in a higher quality product. The reaction time can vary from a few hours to overnight.
Following hydrolysis, the resulting mixture is filtered to remove insoluble materials. Further purification steps may include centrifugation, ultrafiltration, and drying (e.g., spray drying or freeze-drying) to obtain the final powdered or liquid Hydrolyzed Keratin product. The degree of hydrolysis and the specific enzymes or chemicals used influence the molecular weight distribution and functional properties of the final ingredient.
In plain English
Hydrolyzed Keratin is a protein that comes from natural sources like animal hair, wool, or feathers. Think of keratin as the building block that makes up your hair, skin, and nails strong. However, in its natural form, it's a very large molecule that our bodies can't easily use. Hydrolyzed Keratin is essentially broken-down keratin, made into smaller pieces called peptides and amino acids.
This breakdown process, called hydrolysis, makes the keratin easier to absorb and use by the hair and skin. It's like pre-digesting the protein so it can deliver its benefits more effectively. This ingredient is often added to shampoos, conditioners, and skincare products because it can help to strengthen hair, improve its elasticity, and add moisture, while also conditioning and smoothing the skin.
CosIng definition: Keratins, hydrolyzates. A biological material consisting predominantly of partially hydrolyzed keratin
References
- 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
- 2HYDROLYZED KERATIN. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
- 3HYDROLYZED KERATIN. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=HYDROLYZED%20KERATIN