How we scored it
Where it comes from
Carbomer is made by radical polymerization of acrylic acid (from propylene→acrolein→acrylic acid) crosslinked with allyl ethers of pentaerythritol or sucrose, both petrochemical. No bio-based acrylic acid route is used commercially for cosmetic-grade carbomer.
Carbomer is a high molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid. The industrial synthesis involves the free-radical polymerization of acrylic acid. This process typically occurs in a solvent, such as benzene or ethyl acetate, although aqueous polymerization methods are also employed.
The polymerization is initiated by free-radical initiators like peroxides (e.g., hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide) or azo compounds (e.g., azobisisobutyronitrile - AIBN). The reaction is carried out under controlled temperature conditions, often ranging from 50°C to 100°C, depending on the specific initiator and solvent system used. Cross-linking agents, such as allyl ethers of polyols (e.g., allyl sucrose, pentaerythritol allyl ether), are often added in small amounts during polymerization to create a three-dimensional network structure. This cross-linking is crucial for the polymer's ability to swell and form gels.
Following polymerization, the crude Carbomer is typically purified to remove residual monomers, initiators, cross-linkers, and solvents. Purification methods can include precipitation, washing, and drying. The final product is usually a fluffy white powder. The specific grade of Carbomer (e.g., Carbomer 940, 980) is determined by the molecular weight, degree of cross-linking, and residual carboxylic acid group content, which influences its thickening efficiency and properties.
In plain English
Carbomer is a type of synthetic polymer widely used in cosmetics and personal care products. Think of it as a super-absorbent material that can soak up and hold water, making it excellent for thickening lotions, creams, and gels. It's what gives many products their smooth, spreadable texture and helps keep ingredients evenly mixed.
It's created through a chemical process called polymerization, where small molecules called acrylic acid link together to form long chains. These chains are then cross-linked, like creating a mesh, which allows them to swell significantly when exposed to water. This swelling is what gives Carbomer its thickening power. Because the starting materials for acrylic acid come from petroleum, Carbomer is considered a petroleum-derived ingredient.
CosIng definition: 2-Propenoic acid, polymer with 2,2-bis(hydroxymethyl)propane-1,3-diol 2-propenyl ether
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References
- 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
- 2CARBOMER. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
- 3CARBOMER. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=CARBOMER