How we scored it
How it’s made
Where it comes from
Vegetable glycerin and palm-derived stearic acid, esterified with an inorganic catalyst. No petrochemical fragment is introduced.
Glyceryl Stearate is synthesized through an esterification reaction between glycerol and stearic acid. This process typically involves heating the reactants, often in the presence of a catalyst, to facilitate the formation of ester bonds and the release of water.
The reaction can be carried out directly or indirectly. In direct esterification, glycerol and stearic acid are reacted together. This process usually requires elevated temperatures, typically ranging from 180°C to 250°C, and can be performed under vacuum to remove the water byproduct and drive the reaction to completion. Acid catalysts, such as sulfuric acid or p-toluenesulfonic acid, may be used to accelerate the reaction rate, although uncatalyzed reactions are also possible.
Alternatively, transesterification can be employed, where glycerol reacts with a fatty acid ester (like methyl stearate). This method might offer milder reaction conditions. Regardless of the specific esterification method, purification steps are crucial to obtain cosmetic-grade Glyceryl Stearate. These typically involve neutralization of any residual catalyst, washing to remove impurities, and potentially distillation or crystallization to achieve the desired purity and physical form.
While the most common commercial route utilizes renewable feedstocks for both glycerol (biodiesel byproduct) and stearic acid (animal fats or vegetable oils), it is technically possible to synthesize both components from petrochemical sources. However, for cosmetic applications, the high demand for natural and renewable ingredients favors the use of bio-derived feedstocks, making the 'half_renewable' NOI classification a conservative estimate reflecting potential, albeit less common, petrochemical inputs for stearic acid or glycerol.
In plain English
Glyceryl Stearate is a common ingredient found in many skincare and cosmetic products, acting as a multi-functional helper. It's primarily known for its role as an emulsifier, which means it helps to blend oil and water-based ingredients together, preventing them from separating and creating a smooth, stable product like a lotion or cream.
Beyond its emulsifying properties, Glyceryl Stearate also functions as an emollient, meaning it helps to soften and smooth the skin by forming a protective barrier on its surface. This barrier can reduce water loss from the skin, contributing to hydration and a more supple feel. It's often used in formulations to improve the texture and spreadability of the product, making it feel pleasant upon application.
CosIng definition: Stearic acid, monoester with glycerol
Structure
octadecanoic acid;propane-1,2,3-triol
References
- 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
- 2Glyceryl Stearate. PubChem CID 93066. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
- 3GLYCERYL STEARATE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
- 4GLYCERYL STEARATE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=GLYCERYL%20STEARATE