Is Hydrogenated Lecithin natural?

Soybean or sunflower lecithin hydrogenated over a nickel catalyst. Hydrogen gas adds negligible mass and the catalyst is removed.

Hydrogenated lecithin is produced through the catalytic hydrogenation of lecithin. The process begins with purified lecithin, typically obtained from soybean or sunflower oil processing. This lecithin is then subjected to hydrogenation, a chemical reaction where hydrogen gas is added across double bonds in the unsaturated fatty acid chains of the lecithin molecules.

The reaction is carried out under controlled conditions, usually at elevated temperatures (e.g., 100-200°C) and pressures (e.g., 1-10 bar) in the presence of a catalyst. Common catalysts include finely divided metals such as nickel (Raney nickel), palladium, or platinum, often supported on materials like alumina or carbon. The choice of catalyst and reaction conditions influences the degree of hydrogenation and the selectivity of the reaction.

During hydrogenation, the unsaturated fatty acid residues (like linoleic and linolenic acid) in the lecithin are converted to saturated fatty acid residues (like stearic acid). This saturation process alters the physical properties of the lecithin, increasing its oxidative stability and changing its emulsifying characteristics. The reaction is typically performed in a solvent or in a molten state.

Following the hydrogenation reaction, the catalyst is removed, usually by filtration. The product may then undergo further purification steps, such as washing, drying, or solvent extraction, to remove residual reactants, byproducts, or catalyst traces. The final product is a modified lecithin with enhanced stability and altered functional properties suitable for cosmetic applications.

Hydrogenated lecithin is a modified form of lecithin, a natural substance found in many foods like egg yolks and soybeans. In cosmetics, it's often derived from plant-based lecithin, primarily from soybeans. The 'hydrogenated' part means it has undergone a chemical process where hydrogen is added to its structure.

This hydrogenation process makes the ingredient more stable and less likely to go bad over time compared to regular lecithin. It also changes its texture and how it works in products. Think of it like making a natural ingredient more robust for use in your skincare and makeup. It helps to blend oil and water ingredients together smoothly, making lotions and creams feel nice on your skin and improving their texture.

CosIng definition: Lecithins, hydrogenated