Database/Thickener/Hydroxyethylcellulose
Mostly natural · ISO 16128

Is Hydroxyethylcellulose natural?

Mostly. Each anhydroglucose unit (162 Da) from wood pulp carries about 2 ethylene-oxide units (88 Da) from petrochemical ethylene, giving 162/250 = 0.65 at molar substitution 2.0.

INCI nameHydroxyethylcellulose
CAS9004-62-0
FormulaC36H70O19 · 806.9 Da
FunctionThickener · Film Former
FeedstockWood-pulp or cotton cellulose etherified with petrochemical ethylene…

How we scored it

Giving 162/250 = 0.65.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

How it’s made

Cellulose alkoxide opens ethylene oxide (SN2), then protonation. Each curved arrow moves one electron pair, and the film ends on the score above.

Where it comes from

Wood-pulp or cotton cellulose etherified with petrochemical ethylene oxide (molar substitution 1.5 to 2.5).

The industrial synthesis of Hydroxyethylcellulose involves the chemical modification of cellulose. The process begins with alkalization of purified cellulose, typically using sodium hydroxide, to swell the cellulose fibers and make them more reactive. This step is crucial for opening up the crystalline structure of cellulose.

Following alkalization, the activated cellulose is reacted with ethylene oxide in a process called hydroxyethylation. This reaction is usually carried out under controlled temperature and pressure conditions, often in the presence of a solvent or as a slurry. The ethylene oxide reacts with the hydroxyl groups on the cellulose backbone, introducing hydroxyethyl (-OCH2CH2OH) side chains.

The degree of substitution (DS), which refers to the average number of hydroxyethyl groups per anhydroglucose unit of cellulose, can be controlled by adjusting the ratio of ethylene oxide to cellulose and the reaction conditions. After the reaction, the crude product is neutralized, washed to remove byproducts and unreacted reagents, and then dried and milled to the desired particle size. Purification steps are essential to ensure the removal of residual ethylene oxide, glycols, and salts, yielding a high-purity cosmetic-grade ingredient.

In plain English

Hydroxyethylcellulose is a common ingredient found in many cosmetic and personal care products, acting as a thickener and stabilizer. Think of it like a natural gelling agent that helps give lotions, creams, shampoos, and conditioners their desired texture and consistency. It prevents ingredients from separating and ensures the product spreads smoothly on your skin or hair.

It's made from cellulose, which is the main structural component of plants, like the fibers in wood or cotton. Through a chemical process, this plant-derived material is modified to create Hydroxyethylcellulose. This modification makes it soluble in water and gives it its thickening properties, while still maintaining its natural, renewable origin.

CosIng definition: Cellulose, 2-hydroxyethyl ether

Natural alternatives with the same function

Structure

2D structure of Hydroxyethylcellulose

1-[[3,4,5-tris(2-hydroxypropoxy)-6-[4,5,6-tris(2-hydroxypropoxy)-2-(2-hydroxypropoxymethyl)oxan-3-yl]oxyoxan-2-yl]methoxy]propan-2-ol

PubChem CID 4327536 ↗

References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2Hydroxyethylcellulose. PubChem CID 4327536. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
  3. 3HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  4. 4HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE