Database/Thickener/Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Mostly natural · ISO 16128

Is Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose natural?

Mostly. Each anhydroglucose unit (162 Da) carries about 1.9 methyl groups (27 Da) and 0.2 hydroxypropyl groups (12 Da) from petrochemical methyl chloride and propylene oxide, giving 162/200 = 0.81.

INCI nameHydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
CAS9004-65-3
FunctionThickener · Film Former
FeedstockWood-pulp cellulose etherified with petrochemical methyl chloride and…

How we scored it

Giving 162/200 = 0.81.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

How it’s made

Cellulose alkoxides + methyl chloride (SN2) and propylene oxide (SN2 ring opening). Each curved arrow moves one electron pair, and the film ends on the score above.

Where it comes from

Wood-pulp cellulose etherified with petrochemical methyl chloride and propylene oxide.

The industrial synthesis of Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose (HPMC) involves a multi-step chemical modification of cellulose. Initially, purified cellulose, often from wood pulp, is treated with a strong alkali, typically sodium hydroxide, in a process called mercerization. This swells the cellulose fibers and makes them more reactive.

Following mercerization, the activated cellulose is reacted with methyl chloride and propylene oxide. The reaction with methyl chloride introduces methoxy groups (-OCH3) onto the cellulose backbone, forming methylcellulose. Subsequently, the reaction with propylene oxide introduces hydroxypropyl groups (-OCH2CH(OH)CH3) onto the cellulose structure. These reactions are typically carried out in a controlled environment, often in a slurry or a fluidized bed, at elevated temperatures (e.g., 50-100°C) and pressures, depending on the specific process.

The degree of substitution (DS) for methoxy groups and the molar substitution (MS) for hydroxypropyl groups are critical parameters that determine the final properties of the HPMC, such as its viscosity, solubility, and thermal gelation temperature. These parameters are controlled by the stoichiometry of the reagents, reaction time, and temperature. After the etherification reactions, the product is typically washed to remove residual reagents and byproducts, dried, and milled to the desired particle size.

Purification involves washing steps to remove inorganic salts (like NaCl formed as a byproduct) and unreacted reagents. The final product is then dried and milled. The process requires careful control of reaction conditions to achieve consistent product quality and desired performance characteristics for various applications.

In plain English

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose (HPMC) is a versatile ingredient often found in cosmetics to give products a thicker, more stable texture. Think of it like a thickening agent that helps lotions, creams, and even makeup spread smoothly and stay consistent. It also forms a thin, flexible film on the skin, which can help to lock in moisture and provide a pleasant feel.

CosIng definition: Cellulose, 2-hydroxypropyl methyl ether

Natural alternatives with the same function

References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2HYDROXYPROPYL METHYLCELLULOSE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  3. 3HYDROXYPROPYL METHYLCELLULOSE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=HYDROXYPROPYL%20METHYLCELLULOSE