Database/Skin Conditioning Agent/Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
100% natural origin · ISO 16128

Is Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 natural?

Yes. Lysine, threonine and serine are fermentation amino acids and the palmitoyl cap is palm-oil palmitic acid; every atom of Pal-KTTKS is natural origin.

INCI namePalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
CAS521091-64-5
FormulaC39H75N7O10 · 802.1 Da
FunctionSkin Conditioning Agent · Peptide
FeedstockFermentation-derived amino acids acylated with palm-derived palmitic acid.…

How we scored it

What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

Where it comes from

Fermentation-derived amino acids acylated with palm-derived palmitic acid. Coupling agents and resin are process aids only.

The synthesis of Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 is a complex process involving peptide synthesis and acylation. It begins with the synthesis of the pentapeptide sequence, Lys-Met-Trp-Ser-Lys (or a similar sequence depending on the specific variant, though Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 specifically refers to Pal-Lys-Met-Trp-Ser-Lys). This peptide synthesis is typically achieved using solid-phase peptide synthesis (SPPS) or solution-phase methods. In SPPS, the C-terminal amino acid (e.g., Lysine) is attached to a solid resin support, and subsequent amino acids are added sequentially using activated amino acid derivatives and coupling reagents like carbodiimides (e.g., DCC, DIC) or phosphonium/uronium salts (e.g., HBTU, HATU) in the presence of a base (e.g., DIPEA). Protecting groups are used on the amino and carboxyl termini of the amino acids to ensure regioselective coupling.

Following the assembly of the pentapeptide chain, the peptide is cleaved from the resin (if using SPPS) and deprotected. The final step involves the acylation of the N-terminus of the peptide with palmitic acid. This is typically carried out by reacting the free N-terminal amine of the peptide with an activated form of palmitic acid, such as palmitoyl chloride or palmitic anhydride, in the presence of a base. The reaction conditions for acylation are generally mild, often performed in organic solvents like DMF or DCM at room temperature or slightly elevated temperatures.

Purification of the final Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 is crucial to remove unreacted starting materials, reagents, and byproducts. Common purification techniques include reverse-phase high-performance liquid chromatography (RP-HPLC), which is highly effective for separating peptides based on their hydrophobicity. Other methods like precipitation, crystallization, or ion-exchange chromatography may also be employed depending on the scale and purity requirements. The final product is typically isolated as a salt (e.g., acetate or trifluoroacetate) and dried.

In plain English

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 is a synthetic peptide, meaning it's a small chain of amino acids linked together, designed to mimic natural peptides found in the skin. It's often referred to by brand names like Matrixyl. The 'Palmitoyl' part indicates that it has been chemically attached to palmitic acid, a fatty acid, which helps it penetrate the skin more effectively. The 'Pentapeptide-4' refers to the specific sequence of four amino acids that make up the peptide chain. This ingredient is designed to signal to the skin cells to produce more collagen, a protein that gives skin its firmness and elasticity.

CosIng definition: Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 is the reaction product of palmitic acid and Pentapeptide-4.

Structure

2D structure of Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

(2S)-2-[[(2S)-6-amino-2-[[(2S,3R)-2-[[(2S,3R)-2-[[(2S)-6-amino-2-(hexadecanoylamino)hexanoyl]amino]-3-hydroxybutanoyl]amino]-3-hydroxybutanoyl]amino]hexanoyl]amino]-3-hydroxypropanoic acid

PubChem CID 9897237 ↗

References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4. PubChem CID 9897237. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
  3. 3PALMITOYL PENTAPEPTIDE-4. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  4. 4PALMITOYL PENTAPEPTIDE-4. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=PALMITOYL%20PENTAPEPTIDE-4