How we scored it
Where it comes from
Extracted from the dried roots of licorice, Glycyrrhiza glabra, by aqueous or hydro-alcoholic extraction and filtration. No synthetic alternative route is used commercially for this botanical extract.
Licorice root extract is not synthesized industrially in the traditional chemical sense. Instead, it is obtained through physical extraction processes from the plant material. The primary method involves maceration or percolation of the dried and ground licorice roots with a solvent. Common solvents include water, ethanol, or mixtures thereof, chosen based on the desired profile of extracted compounds. The process aims to solubilize the active constituents, such as glycyrrhizin, flavonoids, and glabridin, from the plant matrix.
Following the extraction, the solvent is removed, typically through evaporation under reduced pressure to preserve the integrity of the heat-sensitive compounds. The resulting extract can be a liquid concentrate, a semi-solid paste, or a dried powder, depending on the subsequent processing steps. Further purification or concentration steps may be employed to achieve specific ingredient standards or to isolate particular active fractions. For instance, precipitation or chromatography might be used to enrich certain compounds.
The quality and composition of the extract are highly dependent on the geographical origin of the plant, cultivation practices, harvest time, and the specific extraction and purification methods employed. Standardization of the extract to a defined percentage of key marker compounds, like glycyrrhizin, is common in the cosmetic industry to ensure consistent efficacy and performance.
In plain English
Licorice root extract comes from the roots of the licorice plant, a herb known for its sweet taste and traditional medicinal uses. In cosmetics, it's valued for its ability to calm and soothe the skin, making it a great ingredient for sensitive or irritated complexions. It helps to reduce redness and discomfort, leaving the skin feeling more comfortable and balanced.
Beyond its soothing properties, licorice root extract also contains compounds that can help brighten the skin and even out its tone. It acts as an antioxidant, protecting the skin from environmental damage caused by free radicals, which can contribute to premature aging. Some studies also suggest it has properties that can help inhibit melanin production, potentially reducing the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation.
CosIng definition: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is an extract of the roots of the Licorice, Glycyrrhiza glabra L., Leguminosae
References
- 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
- 2LICORICE ROOT EXTRACT. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
- 3GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA ROOT EXTRACT. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=GLYCYRRHIZA%20GLABRA%20ROOT%20EXTRACT