Database/Skin Conditioning Agent/Kojic Acid
100% natural origin · ISO 16128

Is Kojic Acid natural?

Yes. Kojic Acid is manufactured by fermenting Aspergillus oryzae or related fungi on sugar or starch feedstocks, a natural route.

INCI nameKojic Acid
CAS501-30-4
FormulaC6H6O4 · 142.11 Da
FunctionSkin Conditioning Agent · Antioxidant
FeedstockKojic Acid is produced almost exclusively by aerobic…

How we scored it

Pyranone produced entirely by Aspergillus fermentation of a carbohydrate (rice/glucose) substrate; every carbon carbohydrate-derived, so NOI = 1.0.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

Where it comes from

Kojic Acid is produced almost exclusively by aerobic fermentation of Aspergillus oryzae or related fungi on rice, glucose, or other carbohydrate substrates. No petrochemical synthesis route is used commercially.

Kojic acid is predominantly synthesized through microbial fermentation, a biotechnological process. Specific strains of fungi, most commonly Aspergillus species (e.g., Aspergillus oryzae, Aspergillus flavus), are cultured in a nutrient-rich medium. This medium is typically composed of fermentable sugars (like glucose or sucrose derived from starch or molasses), nitrogen sources (such as yeast extract or peptones), and essential minerals.

The fermentation process is carried out under controlled conditions, including specific temperature ranges (often between 25-30°C) and pH levels (typically around 5-7), and requires adequate aeration to support aerobic respiration of the fungi. During fermentation, the fungi metabolize the carbohydrates and, as a secondary metabolite, produce kojic acid. The duration of fermentation can vary, often ranging from several days to over a week, depending on the strain and process optimization.

Following fermentation, the kojic acid needs to be extracted and purified from the fermentation broth. This involves separating the fungal biomass from the liquid medium, often through filtration or centrifugation. The kojic acid is then typically extracted from the broth using solvent extraction or adsorption techniques. Subsequent purification steps, such as crystallization, chromatography, or ion exchange, are employed to achieve the high purity required for cosmetic applications. These steps remove residual media components, other metabolites, and impurities, yielding crystalline kojic acid.

In plain English

Kojic acid is a natural compound that's often used in skincare products to help brighten the skin and reduce the appearance of dark spots. It's made by certain types of fungi, similar to how yeast is used to make bread or alcohol. These fungi are grown in a special nutrient broth, usually made from plant-based sugars like those found in rice or corn.

During their growth, the fungi naturally produce kojic acid as a byproduct of their metabolism. Think of it like a natural 'waste' product for the fungi that turns out to be beneficial for our skin. After the fungi have done their work, the kojic acid is carefully extracted from the broth and purified to ensure it's safe and effective for use in cosmetic products. This fermentation process means kojic acid is derived entirely from renewable, natural sources.

CosIng definition: Kojic Acid is the heterocyclic compound that conforms to the formula

Structure

2D structure of Kojic Acid

5-hydroxy-2-(hydroxymethyl)pyran-4-one

PubChem CID 3840 ↗

References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2Kojic Acid. PubChem CID 3840. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
  3. 3KOJIC ACID. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  4. 4KOJIC ACID. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=KOJIC%20ACID