How we scored it
How it’s made
Where it comes from
Hydrolyzed Collagen is produced by acid, alkaline, or enzymatic hydrolysis of collagen from animal hoofs and horns. No petrochemical reagent contributes mass to the resulting amino-acid and peptide mixture.
Hydrolyzed collagen, also known as collagen peptides or collagen hydrolysate, is produced through the enzymatic or acid/alkaline hydrolysis of native collagen. The process begins with the sourcing of collagen-rich animal tissues, which are cleaned and processed to isolate the collagen. This raw collagen is then subjected to hydrolysis, a process that breaks down the large protein molecules into smaller peptides.
Enzymatic hydrolysis is a common method, utilizing specific proteases (enzymes that break down proteins) under controlled pH and temperature conditions. The choice of enzyme and reaction parameters influences the molecular weight distribution of the resulting peptides. Acid or alkaline hydrolysis can also be employed, often using mineral acids like hydrochloric acid or bases like sodium hydroxide, followed by neutralization. These methods can be harsher and may lead to a broader range of peptide sizes and potential degradation of certain amino acids.
Following hydrolysis, the reaction mixture is typically filtered to remove insoluble materials. Further purification steps may include ion exchange chromatography, activated carbon treatment for decolorization and deodorization, and ultrafiltration to concentrate the peptides and control their molecular weight. The final product is usually obtained as a powder through spray drying or freeze-drying. The process aims to yield peptides with specific functional properties, such as solubility, bioavailability, and desired molecular weight ranges for cosmetic applications.
In plain English
Hydrolyzed collagen is a skincare ingredient made from collagen, a protein naturally found in our skin, bones, and connective tissues. Think of it as the scaffolding that keeps your skin firm and elastic. However, as we age, our natural collagen production decreases, leading to wrinkles and sagging.
To create hydrolyzed collagen for cosmetics, collagen is extracted from animal sources like cowhides, pig skin, or fish scales. These are then broken down into smaller pieces called peptides using enzymes or acids. This breakdown process makes the collagen easier for the skin to absorb and utilize, helping to improve skin hydration, elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It's essentially a way to give your skin a boost of building blocks to support its structure and youthful appearance.
CosIng definition: Collagens, hydrolyzates. Substance obtained by acidic, alkaline, or enzymatic hydrolysis of hoofs and horns composed primarily of amino acids, peptides, and proteins. It may contain impurities consisting chiefly of carbohydrates and lipids along with smaller quantities of miscellaneous organic substances of biological origin.
References
- 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
- 2HYDROLYZED COLLAGEN. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
- 3HYDROLYZED COLLAGEN. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=HYDROLYZED%20COLLAGEN