How we scored it
How it’s made
Where it comes from
Coconut or palm-kernel lauryl alcohol ethoxylated with 2 to 3 mol petrochemical ethylene oxide, then sulfated with sulfur trioxide and neutralised. Petrochemical lauryl alcohol grades exist; confirm with the supplier.
The industrial synthesis of Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) involves a two-step process. The first step is the ethoxylation of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) or, more commonly, lauryl alcohol. Lauryl alcohol, typically derived from petroleum sources (e.g., via Ziegler process from ethylene) or sometimes from natural sources like coconut or palm kernel oil, is reacted with ethylene oxide in the presence of a catalyst. This reaction adds repeating ethoxy units (-OCH2CH2-) to the lauryl alcohol chain, forming Sodium Laureth Sulfate. The number of ethoxy units can vary, but an average of 2-3 is common for SLES. This ethoxylation reaction is typically carried out under elevated temperatures (e.g., 120-180°C) and pressures, often using alkaline catalysts such as potassium hydroxide (KOH) or sodium hydroxide (NaOH).
The second step involves the sulfation of the resulting laureth alcohol. This is usually achieved by reacting the ethoxylated alcohol with a sulfating agent, such as sulfur trioxide (SO3) or chlorosulfonic acid (ClSO3H). Sulfur trioxide is a highly reactive gas, often generated by the catalytic oxidation of sulfur dioxide, which itself comes from burning sulfur. The sulfation reaction is exothermic and requires careful control of temperature and stoichiometry to prevent degradation and by-product formation. Following sulfation, the resulting acid sulfate is neutralized with a base, typically sodium hydroxide or sodium carbonate, to form the sodium salt, Sodium Laureth Sulfate.
Purification steps are crucial to remove unreacted starting materials, by-products, and residual catalysts. Common purification methods include filtration, washing, and sometimes drying or spray-drying to obtain the final product in various forms, such as liquid concentrates or powders. The process is designed to ensure a high purity product suitable for cosmetic and personal care applications, with stringent controls on residual contaminants like 1,4-dioxane, a potential by-product of ethoxylation.
In plain English
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) is a widely used cleansing ingredient found in many shampoos, body washes, and facial cleansers. It's a type of surfactant, meaning it helps to reduce the surface tension of water, allowing it to mix better with oil and dirt. This property makes it very effective at creating lather and washing away impurities from the skin and hair.
Chemically, SLES is produced through a process that starts with materials derived from petroleum. First, a fatty alcohol (often from petroleum, though sometimes from plant oils) is reacted with ethylene oxide, a chemical produced from petroleum. This step adds a chain of 'ethoxy' units. Then, this modified alcohol is treated with a sulfating agent (also derived from petroleum-based processes) and finally neutralized to create the sodium salt. Because the primary building blocks and reagents are derived from fossil fuels, SLES is classified as having a Natural Origin Index of 0.0.
CosIng definition: Sodium Laureth Sulfate is the sodium salt of sulfated ethoxylated lauryl alcohol that conforms generally to the formula
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Structure
sodium 2-dodecoxyethyl sulfate
References
- 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
- 2Sodium Laureth Sulfate. PubChem CID 23665884. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
- 3SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
- 4SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=SODIUM%20LAURETH%20SULFATE