Database/Surfactant/Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Mostly natural · ISO 16128

Is Cocamidopropyl Betaine natural?

Mostly. The cocoyl fragment (183 Da) is coconut origin; dimethylaminopropylamine and chloroacetate (159 Da) are petrochemical, giving 183/342 = 0.54.

INCI nameCocamidopropyl Betaine
CAS61789-40-0
FunctionSurfactant · Skin Conditioning Agent
FeedstockCoconut fatty acids amidated with petrochemical DMAPA, then…

How we scored it

Giving 183/342 = 0.54.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

How it’s made

Amidation, then carboxymethylation (SN2). Each curved arrow moves one electron pair, and the film ends on the score above.

Where it comes from

Coconut fatty acids amidated with petrochemical DMAPA, then quaternised with sodium chloroacetate.

Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB) is an amphoteric surfactant produced through a multi-step synthesis. The first step involves the reaction of fatty acids, typically lauric acid, myristic acid, or a mixture derived from coconut oil or palm kernel oil, with dimethylamine to form a fatty acid amide. This amidation reaction is usually carried out at elevated temperatures, often between 150-200°C, and may be catalyzed by acids or bases, or proceed thermally.

The resulting fatty acid amide is then reacted with 3-dimethylaminopropylamine (DMAPA). DMAPA itself is synthesized from acrylonitrile and dimethylamine, with acrylonitrile being a petrochemical derivative. The reaction between the fatty acid amide and DMAPA is a quaternization reaction, where the tertiary amine of DMAPA reacts with the amide group. This step is typically performed in the presence of a catalyst, such as an acid, and at moderate temperatures, often around 100-150°C.

Following the reaction, the crude CAPB product undergoes purification steps to remove unreacted starting materials, byproducts (such as sodium chloride if sodium hydroxide is used in neutralization), and residual solvents. Purification often involves filtration, washing, and sometimes ion exchange chromatography to achieve the desired purity for cosmetic applications. The final product is typically an aqueous solution, often around 30-40% active ingredient.

In plain English

Cocamidopropyl Betaine is a very common ingredient found in many personal care products like shampoos, body washes, and facial cleansers. It's known for its ability to create lather and gently cleanse the skin and hair. Think of it as a mild detergent that helps lift away dirt and oil without being too harsh.

This ingredient is made from two main parts. One part comes from natural oils, like coconut or palm kernel oil, which are renewable resources. The other part is made using chemicals that originate from petroleum. Because it's a blend of these two sources, it's considered to be about half renewable and half petroleum-derived according to industry standards.

CosIng definition: Cocamidopropyl Betaine is the zwitterion (inner salt) that conforms generally to the formula:

Natural alternatives with the same function

References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  3. 3COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=COCAMIDOPROPYL%20BETAINE