Database/Fragrance/Ethylene Brassylate
Route-dependent · ISO 16128

Is Ethylene Brassylate natural?

It depends. Brassylic acid comes from erucic acid ozonolysis (natural) or petrochemical cyclododecatriene oxidation; the glycol bridge is always petrochemical ethylene-oxide-derived.

INCI nameEthylene Brassylate
CAS105-95-3
FormulaC15H26O4 · 270.36 Da
FunctionFragrance · Tonic
FeedstockEthylene brassylate is a macrocyclic musk made by…

Why the score varies

This ingredient is made commercially by more than one route, and ISO 16128 scores the feedstock actually used. Without a supplier certificate of origin the value cannot be claimed.

RouteFeedstockNOIShareNotes
erucic acid ozonolysiscrambe/high-erucic rapeseed oil0.78uncertain
petrochemical cyclododecatriene oxidationbutadiene-derived CDT0.00uncertain
Ask your supplier. A batch-specific certificate of origin or bio-based carbon test (ASTM D6866) settles which route applies.

How we scored it

Brassylic-acid-diyl fragment 210 Da; ethylene glycol bridge 60 Da (petrochemical); total 270 Da. Natural route: 210/270=0.78. Petrochemical route (CDT-derived): 0/270=0.0.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

Where it comes from

Ethylene brassylate is a macrocyclic musk made by esterifying brassylic acid with ethylene glycol. Brassylic acid can come from ozonolysis of erucic acid (crambe/rapeseed oil) or from petrochemical cyclododecatriene; the dominant route for fragrance-grade material is unclear.

In plain English

A synthetic musk used to give perfumes and lotions a sweet, musky smell. It's made by joining a long fatty-acid-like molecule with a glycol; the acid can come from plant oil or from petrochemical feedstock depending on the supplier.

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Structure

2D structure of Ethylene Brassylate

1,4-dioxacycloheptadecane-5,17-dione

PubChem CID 61014 ↗

References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2Ethylene Brassylate. PubChem CID 61014. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
  3. 3ETHYLENE BRASSYLATE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  4. 4ETHYLENE BRASSYLATE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=ETHYLENE%20BRASSYLATE