Database/Fragrance/Bisabolol
Route-dependent · ISO 16128

Is Bisabolol natural?

It depends. Sold both as a natural extract from candeia wood or chamomile oil and as a cheaper synthetic racemate.

INCI nameBisabolol
CAS515-69-5
FormulaC15H26O · 222.37 Da
FunctionFragrance · Skin Conditioning
FeedstockA large share of commercial bisabolol is synthesised…

Why the score varies

This ingredient is made commercially by more than one route, and ISO 16128 scores the feedstock actually used. Without a supplier certificate of origin the value cannot be claimed.

RouteFeedstockNOIShareNotes
Synthetic (racemic) from petrochemical terpene precursorspetrochemical farnesene/nerolidol-type intermediates0.00~60%
Steam distillation from candeia tree bark or chamomile oilcandeia wood or German chamomile essential oil1.00~40%
Ask your supplier. A batch-specific certificate of origin or bio-based carbon test (ASTM D6866) settles which route applies.

How we scored it

Sesquiterpene alcohol; synthetic petrochemical route = 0/total, candeia/chamomile-extraction route = total/total = 1.0; routes not averaged.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

How it’s made

Nerolidol: allyl cation, ring closure, capture by water. Each curved arrow moves one electron pair, and the film ends on the score above.

Where it comes from

A large share of commercial bisabolol is synthesised from petrochemical terpene intermediates. The natural alternative, levomenol, is steam-distilled from Brazilian candeia tree bark or German chamomile oil.

In plain English

A soothing skin-conditioning ingredient with a mild floral scent, used to calm and condition skin. It can be extracted from Brazilian candeia tree bark or chamomile oil, but much of the supply is made synthetically from petrochemical terpene chemicals.

CosIng definition: (R*,R*)-.alpha.,4-dimethyl-.alpha.-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)cyclohex-3-ene-1-methanol; 3-Cyclohexene-1-methanol, alpha,4-dimethyl-alpha-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)-, (theta,theta)-(+/-)-; 3-Cyclohexene-1-methanol, alpha,4-dimethyl-alpha-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)-, (S-(theta,theta))- (levomenol)

Natural alternatives with the same function

Structure

2D structure of Bisabolol

(2R)-6-methyl-2-[(1R)-4-methylcyclohex-3-en-1-yl]hept-5-en-2-ol

PubChem CID 1549992 ↗

References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2Bisabolol. PubChem CID 1549992. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
  3. 3BISABOLOL. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  4. 4BISABOLOL. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=BISABOLOL