Why the score varies
This ingredient is made commercially by more than one route, and ISO 16128 scores the feedstock actually used. Without a supplier certificate of origin the value cannot be claimed.
| Route | Feedstock | NOI | Share | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Synthetic vanillin + petrochemical butanol | vanillin from petrochemical guaiacol; n-butanol from propylene | 0.00 | majority | |
| Lignin or natural vanillin + petrochemical butanol | vanillin from wood lignin, ferulic acid or eugenol; n-butanol from propylene | 0.65 | minority | vanillyl part 137.16 Da natural of 210.27 Da |
How we scored it
How it’s made
Where it comes from
Vanillin is reduced to vanillyl alcohol and joined to n-butanol (from petrochemical propylene) by acid-catalysed etherification. Most vanillin is made from petrochemical guaiacol; vanillin from wood lignin, ferulic acid or eugenol makes the vanillyl part natural origin.
Vanillyl butyl ether is made in two steps. Vanillin is first reduced to vanillyl alcohol (4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzyl alcohol), usually with hydrogen over a metal catalyst.
The vanillyl alcohol is then heated with n-butanol and an acid catalyst. The acid protonates the benzylic OH so that it leaves as water, giving a benzylic cation that the ring's para-hydroxy group stabilises; the oxygen of butanol attacks that cation and loses its proton to form the ether. Water is the only by-product, and the ether is purified by washing and vacuum distillation.
In plain English
A warming agent: it gently triggers the skin's heat receptors, so it is used in lip plumpers, warming massage products and some hair-care products. It is made from vanillin and butanol, and its natural content depends on whether the vanillin comes from wood lignin or from petrochemicals.
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Structure
4-(butoxymethyl)-2-methoxyphenol
References
- 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
- 2Vanillyl Butyl Ether. PubChem CID 5084146. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
- 3VANILLYL BUTYL ETHER. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
- 4VANILLYL BUTYL ETHER. CosIng — European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=VANILLYL%20BUTYL%20ETHER