How we scored it
Undecylenic acid (castor-oil pyrolysis, natural) amide-bonded to phenylalanine (fermentation amino acid, natural); both fragments natural → 1.0.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.
Where it comes from
Made by acylating fermentation-derived phenylalanine with castor-oil-derived undecylenic acid. No petrochemical route is used commercially for either fragment.
In plain English
A conditioning ingredient combining a castor-oil fatty acid with a fermentation-derived amino acid, used to help soothe and balance skin.
Structure
(2S)-3-phenyl-2-(undec-10-enoylamino)propanoic acid
References
- 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
- 2Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine. PubChem CID 10308702. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
- 3UNDECYLENOYL PHENYLALANINE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
- 4UNDECYLENOYL PHENYLALANINE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=UNDECYLENOYL%20PHENYLALANINE