How we scored it
Gly 57.05 + Leu 113.16 + Pro 97.12 + terminal H2O 18.02 = 285.3 Da, all amino-acid residues, natural: 285.3/285.3 = 1.00.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.
Where it comes from
Fermentation-derived or hydrolysate amino acids are joined by solid-phase peptide synthesis, and the reagents leave no mass. Glycine is also made from chloroacetic acid and ammonia, but counts peptide building blocks as natural.
In plain English
A tiny protein fragment made of three amino acids (glycine, leucine and proline), assembled in a laboratory one amino acid at a time. It is added to skin products as a skin-conditioning ingredient. The amino acids are generally obtained by fermentation or by breaking down proteins.
CosIng definition: Tripeptide-20 is a synthetic peptide consisting of glycine, leucine and proline; Glycine, synthetic tripeptide with leucine and proline
References
- 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
- 2TRIPEPTIDE-20. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
- 3TRIPEPTIDE-20. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=TRIPEPTIDE-20