Why the score varies
This ingredient is made commercially by more than one route, and ISO 16128 scores the feedstock actually used. Without a supplier certificate of origin the value cannot be claimed.
| Route | Feedstock | NOI | Share | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Vegetable-oil distillate | Soy, sunflower, rapeseed | 1.00 | Majority in cosmetics | Natural origin |
| Total synthesis (dl-alpha) | Petrochemical | 0.00 | Minority | Fully synthetic |
How we scored it
How it’s made
Where it comes from
Natural grade: molecular distillation of vegetable-oil deodoriser distillate. Synthetic grade: condensation of petrochemical trimethylhydroquinone with isophytol.
The industrial production of tocopherol, particularly alpha-tocopherol (the most biologically active form), typically involves the extraction and purification from natural sources, primarily vegetable oils. These oils contain a mixture of tocopherols (alpha, beta, gamma, delta) and tocotrienols.
The initial step involves obtaining crude vegetable oil, which is then subjected to degumming and neutralization processes to remove phospholipids and free fatty acids. Following this, the oil is often refined through bleaching and deodorization. The tocopherol-rich fraction is then concentrated. This can be achieved through various physical methods like molecular distillation or solvent extraction, leveraging the different boiling points and solubilities of tocopherols compared to triglycerides and other oil components.
Further purification steps are employed to isolate specific tocopherol isomers, such as alpha-tocopherol, and to achieve the high purity required for cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications. These steps may include chromatographic separation techniques. While synthetic routes to tocopherol exist, starting from petrochemical precursors like trimethylhydroquinone and isophytol, the overwhelming majority of cosmetic-grade tocopherol is derived from natural, renewable sources due to its abundance in vegetable oils and consumer preference for natural ingredients.
In plain English
Tocopherol, commonly known as Vitamin E, is a fat-soluble nutrient that plays a vital role in protecting cells from damage. In cosmetics, it's highly valued for its antioxidant properties, which help to shield the skin from environmental stressors like pollution and UV radiation. This protective action can contribute to maintaining youthful-looking skin and preventing premature aging.
It's naturally found in many plant-based foods and oils, such as nuts, seeds, and vegetable oils like sunflower and soybean oil. For use in skincare products, tocopherol is typically extracted and purified from these natural sources. This process ensures that the ingredient is of high quality and effective in its intended cosmetic functions.
CosIng definition: Tocopherol consists of alpha-tocopherol, beta-tocopherol, delta-tocopherol and/or gamma-tocopherol and conforms to the formulae:
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Structure
2,7,8-trimethyl-2-(4,8,12-trimethyltridecyl)-3,4-dihydrochromen-6-ol
References
- 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
- 2Tocopherol. PubChem CID 14986. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
- 3TOCOPHEROL. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
- 4TOCOPHEROL. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=TOCOPHEROL