How we scored it
Ester of glycyrrhetinic acid (licorice triterpenoid) and stearyl alcohol (oleochemical fatty alcohol); both natural building blocks, so 1.0.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.
Where it comes from
Made by esterifying glycyrrhetinic acid, obtained by hydrolysis of glycyrrhizin extracted from licorice root, with stearyl alcohol from vegetable oil. No petrochemical input is required.
In plain English
A soothing, skin-conditioning ingredient combining a licorice-root compound with a fatty alcohol. Both starting materials come from plants, and the two are simply joined together.
Structure
octadecyl (2S,4aS,6aR,6aS,6bR,8aR,10S,12aS,14bR)-10-hydroxy-2,4a,6a,6b,9,9,12a-heptamethyl-13-oxo-3,4,5,6,6a,7,8,8a,10,11,12,14b-dodecahydro-1H-picene-2-carboxylate
References
- 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
- 2Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate. PubChem CID 10700068. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
- 3STEARYL GLYCYRRHETINATE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
- 4STEARYL GLYCYRRHETINATE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=STEARYL%20GLYCYRRHETINATE