How we scored it
Palmitoyl C16H31O 239 + proline residue 113 + Na 23 = 375 Da (C21H38NNaO3); all fragments natural, so 375/375 = 1.0.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.
Where it comes from
Dominant route acylates fermentation-derived proline with oleochemical palmitoyl chloride, then neutralises with sodium hydroxide. No petrochemical alternative is commercially significant.
In plain English
A skin-conditioning ingredient made by joining palmitic acid, a fatty acid from palm or coconut oil, to the amino acid proline and neutralising with sodium. It acts as an amino-acid-based surfactant.
Structure
sodium (2S)-1-hexadecanoylpyrrolidine-2-carboxylate
References
- 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
- 2Sodium Palmitoyl Proline. PubChem CID 45789919. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
- 3SODIUM PALMITOYL PROLINE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
- 4SODIUM PALMITOYL PROLINE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=SODIUM%20PALMITOYL%20PROLINE