Database/Skin Conditioning/Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine
Mostly natural · ISO 16128

Is Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine natural?

Mostly. Phytosphingosine comes from yeast fermentation of sugar; the salicylic acid part is made from petrochemical phenol.

INCI nameSalicyloyl Phytosphingosine
CAS212908-67-3
FormulaC25H43NO5 · 437.6 Da
FunctionSkin Conditioning
FeedstockPhytosphingosine is made by fermenting sugar with Wickerhamomyces…

How we scored it

Phytosphingosine residue C18H38NO3 316.5 natural; salicyloyl C7H5O2 121.1 petrochemical (phenol). Total 437.6; 316.5/437.6 = 0.72.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

Where it comes from

Phytosphingosine is made by fermenting sugar with Wickerhamomyces ciferrii yeast and is then acylated with salicylic acid. Salicylic acid comes from phenol by the Kolbe-Schmitt reaction, and no natural salicylate route is commercially significant here.

In plain English

A skin-conditioning, ceramide-like molecule that joins a yeast-made lipid to salicylic acid. The lipid part comes from sugar fermentation; the salicylic acid part is made from petrochemical phenol.

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Structure

2D structure of Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine

2-hydroxy-N-[(2S,3S,4R)-1,3,4-trihydroxyoctadecan-2-yl]benzamide

PubChem CID 15986769 ↗

References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine. PubChem CID 15986769. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
  3. 3SALICYLOYL PHYTOSPHINGOSINE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  4. 4SALICYLOYL PHYTOSPHINGOSINE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=SALICYLOYL%20PHYTOSPHINGOSINE