Database/Emulsifying Surfactant/Polysorbate 60
Mostly petroleum · ISO 16128

Is Polysorbate 60 natural?

Mostly not. Sorbitan and stearic acid are oleochemical/sugar-derived; the 20-mole ethylene oxide chain that solubilises the ester is petrochemical.

INCI namePolysorbate 60
CAS9005-67-8
FunctionEmulsifying Surfactant · Cleansing Surfactant
FeedstockThe sorbitan-stearate core comes from sorbitol (a plant…

How we scored it

Sorbitan (164) + stearic acid (284) − H2O (18) = 430 natural; +20 EO × 44 = 881 petrochemical; 430/1311 = 0.33.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

How it’s made

Acid-catalysed ring closure of sorbitol (intramolecular SN2). Sorbitan is the ring at the core of every sorbitan ester and polysorbate. Each curved arrow moves one electron pair, and the film ends on the scores for the whole family.

Where it comes from

The sorbitan-stearate core comes from sorbitol (a plant sugar alcohol) esterified with vegetable or animal stearic acid. It is then ethoxylated with about 20 moles of petrochemical ethylene oxide to form the final surfactant.

In plain English

Blends oil and water together in lotions and creams, and helps them foam slightly. Made from sorbitol (a plant sugar alcohol) and stearic acid (a fatty acid from vegetable or animal fat), reacted with petroleum-derived ethylene oxide to make it water-soluble.

CosIng definition: Sorbitan, monooctadecanoate, poly(oxy-1,2-ethanediyl) derivs.

Natural alternatives with the same function

Arachidic Acid 100% natural origin

A waxy fatty acid from peanut and other vegetable oils, used to thicken formulas and give creams and…

 Arachidyl Glucoside 100% natural origin

A gentle, sugar-based emulsifier used in creams and lotions to stabilize formulas without harsh surfactants. It's made from…

 Behenic Acid 100% natural origin

A long-chain fatty acid from vegetable oil, used to thicken and stabilise creams and conditioners. It is extracted…

 C10-16 Alkyl Glucoside 100% natural origin

A mild, sugar-based cleansing and emulsifying surfactant made by combining plant-derived fatty alcohols (coconut/palm) with glucose from starch.…

 C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside 100% natural origin

A mild, sugar-based cleansing ingredient made from coconut or palm fatty alcohols and glucose; helps cleanse skin and…

 C18-36 Acid 100% natural origin

A blend of long-chain plant fatty acids used as a mild cleanser and thickener, giving body and a…

References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2POLYSORBATE 60. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  3. 3POLYSORBATE 60. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=POLYSORBATE%2060