Is PEG-12 Diisostearate natural? NOI 0.50

Q: Is PEG-12 Diisostearate natural?

PEG-12 Diisostearate has a Natural Origin Index (NOI) of 0.50 (scale 0–1) per ISO 16128. Polyethylene glycol diester of isostearic acid. Both fatty-acid chains are natural; the 12-unit ethylene-oxide chain is petrochemical. An NOI of 0.50 means 50% of its molecular mass is traceable to a natural, renewable source.

How we scored it

PEG-12 Diisostearate: two isostearoyl fragments 2×C18H35O 535.0 Da (natural) on a PEG-12 chain; PEG-12 546.7 Da + 2×isostearic acid 569.0 Da − 2 H2O = 1079.6 Da → 0.50. The ester oxygens go with the PEG chain, as for PEG-4 Dilaurate.

What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

Where it comes from

Isostearic acid from oleic-acid dimerisation (oleochemical) esterified at both ends of polyethylene glycol (about 12 ethylene-oxide units).

In plain English

An emulsifier for blending oil and water in creams, made from a branched natural fatty acid joined to a longer synthetic PEG chain than its PEG-6/8 relatives.

CosIng definition: Poly(oxy-1,2-ethanediyl), .alpha.-(1-oxo-16-methylheptadecyl)-.omega.-[(1-oxo-16-methylheptadecyl)oxy]-, (12 mol EO average molar ratio)

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References

1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
2PEG-12 DIISOSTEARATE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
3PEG-12 DIISOSTEARATE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=PEG-12%20DIISOSTEARATE