How we scored it
Palmitoyl C16H31O 239.4 + Pro 97.1 + Glu 129.1 + Lys 128.2 + Lys 128.2 + OH 17.0 = 739.0, all natural. 739.0 / 739.0 = 1.0.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.
Where it comes from
Palm-derived palmitic acid is attached to the N-terminus of a Pro-Glu-Lys-Lys chain assembled from fermentation-derived amino acids. Synthesis reagents and protecting groups leave no mass in the product.
In plain English
A short chain of four amino acids with a palmitic acid tail, listed as an antioxidant. The palmitic acid comes from palm oil and the amino acids from fermentation or protein hydrolysis; the chain is assembled in a laboratory.
CosIng definition: Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-20 is the product obtained by the reaction of palmitic acid and Tetrapeptide-20.
Structure
(2S)-6-amino-2-[[(2S)-6-amino-2-[[(2S)-4-carboxy-2-[[(2S)-1-hexadecanoylpyrrolidine-2-carbonyl]amino]butanoyl]amino]hexanoyl]amino]hexanoic acid
References
- 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
- 2Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-20. PubChem CID 169449956. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
- 3PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-20. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
- 4PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-20. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=PALMITOYL%20TETRAPEPTIDE-20