Database/Emollient/Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate
Route-dependent · ISO 16128

Is Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate natural?

It depends. The stearoyl-hydroxystearate part is oleochemical; the C20 Guerbet alcohol is made from decanol that is sold in both oleochemical and petrochemical grades, so the score depends on the alcohol route.

INCI nameOctyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate
CAS90052-75-8
FormulaC56H110O4 · 847.5 Da
FunctionEmollient · Viscosity Controlling
FeedstockEster of octyldodecanol with stearoyl-12-hydroxystearic acid. The acids…

Why the score varies

This ingredient is made commercially by more than one route, and ISO 16128 scores the feedstock actually used. Without a supplier certificate of origin the value cannot be claimed.

RouteFeedstockNOIShareNotes
Oleochemical octyldodecanolCoconut-derived decanol Guerbet dimer + castor 12-hydroxystearic and stearic acids1.00CommonNatural origin
Petrochemical octyldodecanolZiegler/oxo decanol Guerbet dimer + the same natural acids0.65CommonAcid fragments natural, alcohol petrochemical
Ask your supplier. A batch-specific certificate of origin or bio-based carbon test (ASTM D6866) settles which route applies.

How we scored it

Octyldodecanol (Guerbet C20 alcohol, oleochemical) esterified with 12-hydroxystearoyl-stearate (castor/tallow-derived fatty acids); all natural building blocks, condensation water not counted.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

Where it comes from

Ester of octyldodecanol with stearoyl-12-hydroxystearic acid. The acids come from castor and palm oils; the Guerbet alcohol may be oleochemical (1.0 overall) or petrochemical (about 0.65 overall).

In plain English

A rich, waxy emollient ester built from a branched vegetable-oil-derived fatty alcohol and stearic and hydroxystearic fatty acids. It thickens formulas and adds a cushiony after-feel to skin.

Natural alternatives with the same function

Structure

2D structure of Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate

2-octyldodecyl 12-octadecanoyloxyoctadecanoate

PubChem CID 174782 ↗

References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate. PubChem CID 174782. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
  3. 3OCTYLDODECYL STEAROYL STEARATE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  4. 4OCTYLDODECYL STEAROYL STEARATE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=OCTYLDODECYL%20STEAROYL%20STEARATE