Database/Skin Conditioning/Octyldodecyl Hydroxystearate
Route-dependent · ISO 16128

Is Octyldodecyl Hydroxystearate natural?

It depends. 12-Hydroxystearic acid comes from hydrogenated castor oil; the branched octyldodecanol is made from decanol that can be plant-derived or petrochemical, so the value depends on the supplier, as for Octyldodecanol.

INCI nameOctyldodecyl Hydroxystearate
CAS74659-70-4
FunctionSkin Conditioning
Feedstock12-Hydroxystearic acid from hydrogenated castor oil is esterified…

Why the score varies

This ingredient is made commercially by more than one route, and ISO 16128 scores the feedstock actually used. Without a supplier certificate of origin the value cannot be claimed.

RouteFeedstockNOIShareNotes
Oleochemical octyldodecanol12-Hydroxystearic acid from hydrogenated castor oil; 2-octyldodecanol by Guerbet condensation of coconut or palm kernel decanol1.00not published
Synthetic decanol12-Hydroxystearic acid from hydrogenated castor oil; 2-octyldodecanol from Ziegler or oxo decanol0.49not published
Ask your supplier. A batch-specific certificate of origin or bio-based carbon test (ASTM D6866) settles which route applies.

How we scored it

Ester C38H76O3 581 Da: 12-hydroxystearoyl C18H35O2 283.5 Da (hydrogenated castor oil, natural) + 2-octyldodecyl-O C20H41O 297.5 Da (natural from oleochemical decanol, petrochemical from Ziegler or oxo decanol). Oleochemical route 581 / 581 = 1.00; synthetic decanol route 283.5 / 581 = 0.49.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

Where it comes from

12-Hydroxystearic acid from hydrogenated castor oil is esterified with 2-octyldodecanol made by Guerbet condensation of coconut or palm kernel decanol. Supplier note: a petrochemical Ziegler decanol feed would lower the value.

In plain English

A rich, non-greasy emollient ester that softens skin and gives lipsticks and balms a glossy, cushioned feel. It joins 12-hydroxystearic acid from hydrogenated castor oil to a branched 20-carbon alcohol, octyldodecanol.

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References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2OCTYLDODECYL HYDROXYSTEARATE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  3. 3OCTYLDODECYL HYDROXYSTEARATE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=OCTYLDODECYL%20HYDROXYSTEARATE