How we scored it
How it’s made
Where it comes from
Manufactured by Knoevenagel condensation of benzophenone (from benzene) with ethyl cyanoacetate, then transesterified with 2-ethylhexanol; all feedstocks are petrochemical. No natural-origin route exists for this UV filter.
The industrial synthesis of Octocrylene typically involves a multi-step process starting from petrochemical precursors. A common route begins with the production of 2-ethylhexanol, often synthesized via the oxo process (hydroformylation) of propylene followed by aldol condensation and hydrogenation. Separately, benzophenone is synthesized, often through the Friedel-Crafts acylation of benzene with benzoyl chloride, or by the oxidation of diphenylmethane. Benzene itself is a fundamental petrochemical derived from crude oil refining or steam cracking of hydrocarbons.
The key reaction for Octocrylene formation is the esterification of 2-ethylhexanol with 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid. The latter is typically prepared by the Knoevenagel condensation of benzophenone with ethyl cyanoacetate, followed by hydrolysis and decarboxylation. The esterification reaction is usually catalyzed by an acid, such as sulfuric acid or p-toluenesulfonic acid, and carried out under reflux conditions, often with azeotropic removal of water to drive the equilibrium towards product formation. Temperatures typically range from 100-150°C depending on the specific catalyst and solvent system used.
Following the esterification, the crude Octocrylene undergoes purification to remove unreacted starting materials, byproducts, and catalyst residues. This purification typically involves steps such as washing with aqueous solutions (e.g., sodium bicarbonate to neutralize acid catalyst), distillation under reduced pressure to isolate the high-boiling point ester, and potentially recrystallization or further chromatographic techniques if very high purity is required. The final product is a clear, viscous liquid.
In plain English
Octocrylene is a synthetic ingredient commonly used in sunscreens and other personal care products to protect the skin from harmful ultraviolet (UV) radiation. It functions as a UV filter, absorbing both UVA and UVB rays, which helps to prevent sunburn and long-term skin damage. Its ability to absorb UV light makes it a valuable component in formulations designed to provide broad-spectrum sun protection.
Beyond its primary role as a UV filter, Octocrylene also possesses antioxidant properties. This means it can help to neutralize free radicals generated by UV exposure, offering an additional layer of defense for the skin. Furthermore, it can act as a solvent, helping to dissolve other ingredients within the cosmetic formulation, ensuring a stable and effective product. Its chemical structure is designed to be stable and effective when exposed to sunlight.
CosIng definition: Octocrylene is the substituted acrylate that conforms to the formula
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Structure
2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylprop-2-enoate
References
- 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
- 2Octocrylene. PubChem CID 22571. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
- 3OCTOCRYLENE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
- 4OCTOCRYLENE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=OCTOCRYLENE