Database/Humectant/Menthyl PCA
Route-dependent · ISO 16128

Is Menthyl PCA natural?

It depends. The PCA half is fermentation-derived; whether the menthol half is natural depends on the supplier's menthol.

INCI nameMenthyl PCA
CAS64519-44-4
FormulaC15H25NO3 · 267.36 Da
FunctionHumectant · Skin Conditioning
FeedstockMenthol (natural or synthetic) esterified with pyrrolidone carboxylic…

Why the score varies

This ingredient is made commercially by more than one route, and ISO 16128 scores the feedstock actually used. Without a supplier certificate of origin the value cannot be claimed.

RouteFeedstockNOIShareNotes
natural mentholmenthol from cornmint (Mentha arvensis) oil esterified with fermentation-derived PCA1.00natural gradesevery atom natural origin
synthetic mentholmenthol from petrochemical m-cresol/thymol or citral esterified with fermentation-derived PCA0.42bulk gradesonly the PCA acyl 112.1 Da of 267.4 Da is natural origin
Ask your supplier. A batch-specific certificate of origin or bio-based carbon test (ASTM D6866) settles which route applies.

How we scored it

Menthol is route-dependent on this site (see Menthyl Acetate). Menthyl PCA 267.4 Da = menthyl fragment 155.3 Da + PCA acyl 112.1 Da (glutamic-acid fermentation, natural). Natural menthol: 1.0; synthetic menthol: 112.1/267.4 = 0.42.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

Where it comes from

Menthol (natural or synthetic) esterified with pyrrolidone carboxylic acid.

In plain English

A moisturizing ingredient made by joining menthol from mint with a natural amino-acid derivative from fermented sugar. It helps skin hold onto water and gives a light, cooling, conditioned feel.

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Structure

2D structure of Menthyl PCA

[(1R,2S,5R)-5-methyl-2-propan-2-ylcyclohexyl] 5-oxopyrrolidine-2-carboxylate

PubChem CID 14504096 ↗

References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2Menthyl PCA. PubChem CID 14504096. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
  3. 3MENTHYL PCA. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  4. 4MENTHYL PCA. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=MENTHYL%20PCA