Database/Emollient/Isocetyl Isostearate
Route-dependent · ISO 16128

Is Isocetyl Isostearate natural?

It depends. The isostearic acid half is natural oleochemical; whether the isocetyl alcohol half is natural depends on how the Guerbet alcohol was made.

INCI nameIsocetyl Isostearate
CAS52006-45-8
FormulaC34H68O2 · 508.9 Da
FunctionEmollient · Skin Conditioning
Feedstockisocetyl alcohol (Guerbet alcohol, natural or petrochemical) esterified…

Why the score varies

This ingredient is made commercially by more than one route, and ISO 16128 scores the feedstock actually used. Without a supplier certificate of origin the value cannot be claimed.

RouteFeedstockNOIShareNotes
isocetyl alcohol from natural fatty alcoholisocetyl alcohol made by Guerbet dimerisation of coconut/palm-kernel-derived fatty alcohol, esterified with isostearic acid1.00common for cosmetic gradesevery atom of the ester is natural origin
isocetyl alcohol from petrochemical fatty alcoholisocetyl alcohol made from Ziegler/oxo (ethylene-derived) fatty alcohol, esterified with isostearic acid0.53also commercialonly the isostearic acid fragment (267.5 Da of 508.9 Da) is natural origin
Ask your supplier. A batch-specific certificate of origin or bio-based carbon test (ASTM D6866) settles which route applies.

How we scored it

Guerbet alcohols are route-dependent by site policy (see Isocetyl Alcohol and Isocetyl Stearate). Ester 508.9 Da = isocetyl alcohol fragment 241.4 Da + isostearic acid acyl 267.5 Da. Natural-alcohol route 1.0; petrochemical-alcohol route 267.5/508.9 = 0.53.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

Where it comes from

isocetyl alcohol (Guerbet alcohol, natural or petrochemical) esterified with isostearic acid.

In plain English

An emollient ester made from two branched fatty compounds derived from plant oils. It gives creams a light, non-greasy skin feel without leaving residue.

Natural alternatives with the same function

Acacia Dealbata Flower Wax 100% natural origin

A soft wax from mimosa flowers used to condition skin and add emollience. It is derived directly from…

 Acrocomia Aculeata Seed Butter 100% natural origin

A solid plant fat obtained from the seeds of the macauba palm, a South American tree, used to…

 Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract 100% natural origin

An extract made from kiwi fruit, used in cosmetics as a skin-conditioning and softening ingredient. Comes directly from…

 Actinidia Chinensis Seed Oil 100% natural origin

A plant oil pressed from kiwi seeds, used to soften and condition skin. It's a natural vegetable oil…

 Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract 100% natural origin

An extract of baobab fruit, from the African baobab tree. Used as an emollient to soften and smooth…

 Adansonia Digitata Oil 100% natural origin

A rich vegetable oil pressed from the baobab tree's fruit pulp and leaves. Used to soften and condition…

Structure

2D structure of Isocetyl Isostearate

14-methylpentadecyl 16-methylheptadecanoate

PubChem CID 104050 ↗

References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2Isocetyl Isostearate. PubChem CID 104050. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
  3. 3ISOCETYL ISOSTEARATE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  4. 4ISOCETYL ISOSTEARATE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=ISOCETYL%20ISOSTEARATE