Database/Skin Conditioning/Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate
Mostly natural · ISO 16128

Is Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate natural?

Mostly. The hexanoyl group and the arginine and alanine units are natural; norleucine is a synthetic amino acid and the acetate counter-ion is petrochemical.

INCI nameHexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate
CAS860627-90-3
FormulaC23H45N7O6 · 515.6 Da
FunctionSkin Conditioning
FeedstockSolid-phase peptide synthesis from protected amino acids, acylated…

How we scored it

C23H45N7O6 515.7 Da (hexanoyl-Arg-Ala-Nle amide, acetate salt): hexanoyl C6H11O 99.2 Da (natural caproic acid) + arginine 156.2 + alanine 71.1 residues (fermentation amino acids) = 326.4 Da natural; norleucine amide 129.2 Da (synthetic, non-protein amino acid) and acetic acid 60.1 Da (petrochemical, as for Sodium Acetate) → 0.63.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

Where it comes from

Solid-phase peptide synthesis from protected amino acids, acylated with hexanoic acid and isolated as the acetate salt.

In plain English

A small peptide joined to a short fatty acid and an amino acid, supplied as a salt, used to condition skin. Most of its mass comes from natural fatty-acid and amino-acid building blocks.

CosIng definition: Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate is the acetate salt of the reaction product of Dipeptide-3 with hexanoic acid and norleucine

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Structure

2D structure of Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate

acetic acid;(2S)-2-[[(2S)-2-[[(2S)-5-(diaminomethylideneamino)-2-(hexanoylamino)pentanoyl]amino]propanoyl]amino]hexanamide

PubChem CID 71587827 ↗

References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate. PubChem CID 71587827. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
  3. 3HEXANOYL DIPEPTIDE-3 NORLEUCINE ACETATE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  4. 4HEXANOYL DIPEPTIDE-3 NORLEUCINE ACETATE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=HEXANOYL%20DIPEPTIDE-3%20NORLEUCINE%20ACETATE