How we scored it
A triterpene glycoside (glycyrrhetinic acid plus glucuronic acid units) extracted directly from licorice root; extracted natural glycosides are 1.0.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.
Where it comes from
Extracted and purified from licorice root using water/alcohol extraction. No synthetic manufacturing route is used commercially for this plant metabolite.
In plain English
A soothing, moisturising compound extracted from licorice root, long used in traditional skincare. Purified directly from the plant rather than synthesised.
Structure
(2S,3S,4S,5R,6R)-6-[(2S,3R,4S,5S,6S)-2-[[(3S,4aR,6aR,6bS,8aS,11S,12aR,14aR,14bS)-11-carboxy-4,4,6a,6b,8a,11,14b-heptamethyl-14-oxo-2,3,4a,5,6,7,8,9,10,12,12a,14a-dodecahydro-1H-picen-3-yl]oxy]-6-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2-carboxylic acid
References
- 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
- 2Glycyrrhizic Acid. PubChem CID 14982. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
- 3GLYCYRRHIZIC ACID. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
- 4GLYCYRRHIZIC ACID. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=GLYCYRRHIZIC%20ACID