Why the score varies
This ingredient is made commercially by more than one route, and ISO 16128 scores the feedstock actually used. Without a supplier certificate of origin the value cannot be claimed.
| Route | Feedstock | NOI | Share | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Menthol from cornmint oil or pine myrcene | Mentha arvensis oil or pine turpentine (myrcene) | 0.66 | approx. 60% (estimate) | |
| Menthol from thymol (m-cresol) or citral (isobutylene) | petrochemical | 0.00 | approx. 40% (estimate) |
How we scored it
Where it comes from
Menthol is converted to menthyl chloride, carboxylated through a Grignard step to p-menthane-3-carboxylic acid, then amidated with ethylamine. Which menthol source dominates is uncertain; mint-oil and pine-myrcene menthol is assumed to be somewhat larger than thymol- or citral-based synthetic menthol.
In plain English
A menthol-derived cooling compound (known as WS-3) used to give a cooling feel in skin, lip and oral products. It is made from menthol by adding an ethyl-amide group using petrochemical reagents.
Natural alternatives with the same function
Essential oil distilled from fir tree needles, used for its fresh, woody fragrance. A whole natural essential oil.
Abies Sibirica Oil 100% natural originA fresh, piney fragrance oil steam-distilled from Siberian fir needles and branches. It comes directly from the tree…
Aesculus Hippocastanum Bark Extract 100% natural originA natural extract from horse chestnut bark, used in skincare for its toning and astringent effect on skin.…
Angelica Archangelica Leaf Extract 100% natural originAn extract of the leaves of garden angelica (Angelica archangelica), a plant of the carrot family, made by…
Angelica Archangelica Root Oil 100% natural originAn aromatic essential oil distilled from angelica root, used in perfumery and as a skin tonic. It is…
Aniba Rosaeodora Wood Oil 100% natural originRosewood essential oil, steam-distilled from the wood of the rosewood tree. Used to perfume products with a warm,…
Structure
N-ethyl-5-methyl-2-propan-2-ylcyclohexane-1-carboxamide
References
- 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
- 2Ethyl Menthane Carboxamide. PubChem CID 62907. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
- 3ETHYL MENTHANE CARBOXAMIDE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
- 4ETHYL MENTHANE CARBOXAMIDE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=ETHYL%20MENTHANE%20CARBOXAMIDE