Database/Skin Conditioning/Dipentaerythrityl Tetrahydroxystearate/Tetraisostearate
Mostly natural · ISO 16128

Is Dipentaerythrityl Tetrahydroxystearate/Tetraisostearate natural?

Mostly. Hydroxystearic acid (castor oil) and isostearic acid (vegetable oleic acid) are natural; dipentaerythritol is built from petrochemical formaldehyde and acetaldehyde.

INCI nameDipentaerythrityl Tetrahydroxystearate/Tetraisostearate
FunctionSkin Conditioning · Viscosity Controlling
FeedstockDominant route: esterification of petrochemical dipentaerythritol with castor-derived…

How we scored it

Assume 4 acyl groups on dipentaerythritol: 2 hydroxystearoyl 283.5 + 2 isostearoyl 267.5 = 1101.9 natural; core C10H18O7 250.3 (formaldehyde + acetaldehyde, petrochemical). Total 1352.2; 1101.9/1352.2 = 0.81.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

Where it comes from

Dominant route: esterification of petrochemical dipentaerythritol with castor-derived 12-hydroxystearic acid and oleic-derived isostearic acid. Bio-based pentaerythritol grades are marginal in cosmetics, so no second route is scored.

In plain English

A thick, glossy ester used in lipsticks, balms and creams to add body and cushion. It is made by attaching hydroxystearic acid and isostearic acid, both from vegetable oils, to dipentaerythritol, a synthetic six-hydroxyl alcohol.

CosIng definition: 2,2'-(Oxybismethylene)bis[2-hydroxymethyl-1,3-propanediol], tetraester with 12-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid and isooctadecanoic acid

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References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2DIPENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAHYDROXYSTEARATE/TETRAISOSTEARATE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  3. 3DIPENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAHYDROXYSTEARATE/TETRAISOSTEARATE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=DIPENTAERYTHRITYL%20TETRAHYDROXYSTEARATE/TETRAISOSTEARATE