Database/Skin Conditioning/Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate
Mostly natural · ISO 16128

Is Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate natural?

Mostly. Hydroxystearic and stearic acids come from vegetable oils and rosin acids from pine resin, but the dipentaerythritol core is made from petrochemical formaldehyde and acetaldehyde.

INCI nameDipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate
FunctionSkin Conditioning · Viscosity Controlling
FeedstockHydroxystearic acid (hydrogenated castor oil), stearic acid (vegetable…

How we scored it

Assumed 2:2:2 acyl split. Natural acyls: 2x283.5 hydroxystearoyl + 2x267.5 stearoyl + 2x285.5 rosinoyl = 1672.8. Petrochemical dipentaerythritol core C10H16O7 = 248.2. Total 1921.0. 1672.8/1921.0 = 0.87.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

Where it comes from

Hydroxystearic acid (hydrogenated castor oil), stearic acid (vegetable fat) and rosin acids (pine resin) are esterified onto dipentaerythritol, a co-product of pentaerythritol made from formaldehyde and acetaldehyde. Bio-based pentaerythritol is not commercially significant, so the core is counted as petrochemical.

In plain English

A waxy, tacky ester that thickens oils and gives lipsticks and glosses a rich, glossy, cushioned feel while conditioning skin. It joins hydroxystearic acid, stearic acid and pine rosin acids, all from plants, onto dipentaerythritol, a polyalcohol made from formaldehyde and acetaldehyde.

CosIng definition: Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate is the hexaester of 6-hydroxystearic acid stearic acid derived from Rosin and a dimer of pentaerythritol

Natural alternatives with the same function

References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2DIPENTAERYTHRITYL HEXAHYDROXYSTEARATE/HEXASTEARATE/HEXAROSINATE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  3. 3DIPENTAERYTHRITYL HEXAHYDROXYSTEARATE/HEXASTEARATE/HEXAROSINATE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=DIPENTAERYTHRITYL%20HEXAHYDROXYSTEARATE/HEXASTEARATE/HEXAROSINATE