Database/Hair Conditioning/Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters
Route-dependent · ISO 16128

Is Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters natural?

It depends. Dipentaerythritol is petrochemical (acetaldehyde, formaldehyde); the C5-9 acids are natural if from castor, coconut or oleic-acid cleavage but petrochemical if from oxo synthesis.

INCI nameDipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters
CAS67762-52-1
FunctionHair Conditioning · Plasticiser
FeedstockDominant route is assumed to be esterification of…

Why the score varies

This ingredient is made commercially by more than one route, and ISO 16128 scores the feedstock actually used. Without a supplier certificate of origin the value cannot be claimed.

RouteFeedstockNOIShareNotes
Oxo/petrochemical C5-9 acid cut esterified with petrochemical dipentaerythritolpropylene/butene oxo acids; acetaldehyde + formaldehyde0.00~60% (estimate)
Oleochemical C5-9 acids (castor heptanoic, coconut caprylic, oleic-derived pelargonic) esterified with petrochemical dipentaerythritolcastor oil, coconut oil, oleic acid; acetaldehyde + formaldehyde0.73~40% (estimate)
Ask your supplier. A batch-specific certificate of origin or bio-based carbon test (ASTM D6866) settles which route applies.

How we scored it

Dipentaerythritol core C10H16O7 248.2 Da petrochemical (acetaldehyde + formaldehyde). Six acyls, average C7 heptanoyl 113.2 each = 679.1 Da: natural if oleochemical, else 0. Total 927.3; 679.1 / 927.3 = 0.73 vs 0.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

Where it comes from

Dominant route is assumed to be esterification of petrochemical dipentaerythritol with a C5-9 acid cut from oxo (propylene/butene) chemistry, common in synthetic polyol esters. The alternative uses oleochemical acids (castor heptanoic, coconut caprylic, oleic-derived pelargonic).

In plain English

A thick, glossy ester oil that adds gloss, cushion and slip to lipsticks, balms and creams and helps soften polymers. It is made from dipentaerythritol, a petrochemical polyol, esterified with a mix of short-to-medium chain fatty acids (C5 to C9).

CosIng definition: Carboxylic Acids, C5-9, Hexaesters with Dipentaerythrol

Natural alternatives with the same function

References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2DIPENTAERYTHRITYL HEXA C5-9 ACID ESTERS. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  3. 3DIPENTAERYTHRITYL HEXA C5-9 ACID ESTERS. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=DIPENTAERYTHRITYL%20HEXA%20C5-9%20ACID%20ESTERS