Database/Emollient/Dioctyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Route-dependent · ISO 16128

Is Dioctyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate natural?

It depends. Lauric acid comes from coconut or palm kernel oil and glutamic acid from fermentation; the two octyldodecyl groups are made from decanol that can be plant-derived or petrochemical, so the value depends on the supplier, as for Octyldodecanol.

INCI nameDioctyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
CAS82204-94-2
FormulaC57H111NO5 · 890.5 Da
FunctionEmollient · Hair Conditioning
FeedstockDominant route: N-lauroyl glutamic acid esterified with 2-octyldodecanol…

Why the score varies

This ingredient is made commercially by more than one route, and ISO 16128 scores the feedstock actually used. Without a supplier certificate of origin the value cannot be claimed.

RouteFeedstockNOIShareNotes
Oleochemical octyldodecanolLauric acid from coconut or palm kernel oil, glutamic acid from fermentation, octyldodecanol from vegetable decanol1.00not published
Synthetic decanolAs above, but octyldodecanol from Ziegler or oxo decanol0.37not published
Ask your supplier. A batch-specific certificate of origin or bio-based carbon test (ASTM D6866) settles which route applies.

How we scored it

C57H111NO5 890.5 Da: lauroyl glutamate core (natural lauric acid and fermentation glutamic acid) plus two 2-octyldodecyl C20H41 groups, 2 x 281.5 = 563.1 Da, natural only when the decanol is oleochemical. Oleochemical route 890.5 / 890.5 = 1.00; synthetic decanol route 327.4 / 890.5 = 0.37.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

Where it comes from

Dominant route: N-lauroyl glutamic acid esterified with 2-octyldodecanol made from vegetable-derived decanol. Supplier note: petrochemical (Ziegler or oxo) decanol exists, so confirm the alcohol is oleochemical.

In plain English

A conditioning emollient built from glutamic acid (an amino acid), lauric acid from coconut or palm kernel oil and a branched fatty alcohol. It gives skin and hair a silky, non-greasy feel.

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Structure

2D structure of Dioctyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

bis(2-octyldodecyl) (2S)-2-(dodecanoylamino)pentanedioate

PubChem CID 13035292 ↗

References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2Dioctyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate. PubChem CID 13035292. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
  3. 3DIOCTYLDODECYL LAUROYL GLUTAMATE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  4. 4DIOCTYLDODECYL LAUROYL GLUTAMATE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=DIOCTYLDODECYL%20LAUROYL%20GLUTAMATE