Why the score varies
This ingredient is made commercially by more than one route, and ISO 16128 scores the feedstock actually used. Without a supplier certificate of origin the value cannot be claimed.
| Route | Feedstock | NOI | Share | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Butadiene-derived dodecanedioic acid | Petrochemical butadiene via cyclododecatriene; Guerbet alcohol from decanol | 0.75 | ~65% | |
| Fermentation-derived dodecanedioic acid | Lauric acid or plant oil fermented by Candida; Guerbet alcohol from decanol | 1.00 | ~35% |
How we scored it
Where it comes from
Assumed dominant route: dodecanedioic acid from petrochemical butadiene via cyclododecatriene, esterified with oleochemical 2-octyldodecanol, giving 0.75. The alternative is dodecanedioic acid fermented by Candida from lauric acid or plant oil, giving 1.0 (fermentation of n-paraffins would not count as natural), so the supplier should confirm.
In plain English
A light, silky emollient ester that softens skin and hair and reduces static. It joins a 12-carbon diacid to a branched 20-carbon fatty alcohol; the diacid can come from fermentation of plant oils or be made from petrochemical butadiene.
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Structure
bis(2-octyldodecyl) dodecanedioate
References
- 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
- 2Dioctyldodecyl Dodecanedioate. PubChem CID 10079011. National Center for Biotechnology Information. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ↗
- 3DIOCTYLDODECYL DODECANEDIOATE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
- 4DIOCTYLDODECYL DODECANEDIOATE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=DIOCTYLDODECYL%20DODECANEDIOATE