Database/Emollient/Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer
Route-dependent · ISO 16128

Is Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer natural?

It depends. Dimer acid from vegetable or tall-oil fatty acids is natural; 1,3-propanediol is natural when made by corn fermentation but petrochemical when made from acrolein or ethylene oxide.

INCI nameDilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer
FunctionEmollient · Film Forming
FeedstockDilinoleic dimer acid is polycondensed with 1,3-propanediol, which…

Why the score varies

This ingredient is made commercially by more than one route, and ISO 16128 scores the feedstock actually used. Without a supplier certificate of origin the value cannot be claimed.

RouteFeedstockNOIShareNotes
Bio-PDOCorn-glucose fermentation 1,3-propanediol1.00~75% (dominant)
Petrochemical PDOAcrolein or ethylene oxide route 1,3-propanediol0.88~25%
Ask your supplier. A batch-specific certificate of origin or bio-based carbon test (ASTM D6866) settles which route applies.

How we scored it

Repeat unit C39H68O4 601.0: dilinoleoyl residue 526.9 (vegetable dimer acid, natural) + propanediol oxy residue 74.1. Bio-PDO: 601.0/601.0 = 1.00; petrochemical PDO: 526.9/601.0 = 0.88.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

Where it comes from

Dilinoleic dimer acid is polycondensed with 1,3-propanediol, which in cosmetics is predominantly corn-fermentation bio-PDO. Petrochemical propanediol is a smaller alternative supply.

In plain English

A flexible polyester made from dilinoleic acid (a dimer of vegetable-oil fatty acid) and propanediol. It gives lip and skin products a glossy film, thickens oils and acts as an emollient and plasticiser.

CosIng definition: Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer is a copolymer of Dilinoleic Acid and Propanediol monomers

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References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2DILINOLEIC ACID/PROPANEDIOL COPOLYMER. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  3. 3DILINOLEIC ACID/PROPANEDIOL COPOLYMER. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=DILINOLEIC%20ACID/PROPANEDIOL%20COPOLYMER