Database/Emollient/Di-C12-13 Alkyl Malate
100% petroleum · ISO 16128

Is Di-C12-13 Alkyl Malate natural?

No. The C12-13 alcohol cut contains odd-carbon C13 chains, so it is a synthetic oxo or Ziegler alcohol rather than oleochemical, and commercial malic acid is largely DL-malic acid from petrochemical maleic anhydride.

INCI nameDi-C12-13 Alkyl Malate
FunctionEmollient · Skin Conditioning
FeedstockDominant route: synthetic C12-13 alcohols are esterified with…

How we scored it

Malate core C4H4O5 132.1 plus two C12-13 alkyl groups (mean C12.5H26) 352.7 = 484.8 Da. Odd-carbon C13 alcohols are synthetic and malic acid is mostly DL from maleic anhydride: 0/484.8 = 0.00.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

Where it comes from

Dominant route: synthetic C12-13 alcohols are esterified with DL-malic acid made from maleic anhydride (butane). An oleochemical C12-14 alcohol with fermentation L-malic acid is possible but not the known commercial grade, so the supplier should confirm.

In plain English

A light, silky emollient ester of malic acid and C12-13 fatty alcohols. It gives creams, sunscreens and lipsticks a smooth, non-greasy feel and helps dissolve other oils and actives. Both parts are generally made from petrochemical feedstocks.

CosIng definition: Butandioic acid, hydroxy-, bis-(C12-13-alkyl) esters

Natural alternatives with the same function

References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2DI-C12-13 ALKYL MALATE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  3. 3DI-C12-13 ALKYL MALATE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=DI-C12-13%20ALKYL%20MALATE