Is Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen natural? NOI 0.90

Q: Is Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen natural?

Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen has a Natural Origin Index (NOI) of 0.90 (scale 0–1) per ISO 16128. The collagen protein backbone and coconut-derived alkyl group are natural; only the small dimethyl-hydroxypropyl quaternizing group is petrochemical. An NOI of 0.90 means 90% of its molecular mass is traceable to a natural, renewable source.

How we scored it

Hydrolyzed collagen (protein hydrolysate, natural) dominates mass; low-substitution cationic modification adds coco-alkyl (natural) + dimethyl hydroxypropyl ammonium chloride (dimethyl+hydroxypropyl petrochemical, Cl natural) at roughly 1 site per chain, estimated ~0.90 (degree of substitution unknown)

What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

Where it comes from

Animal collagen is hydrolyzed, then reacted at low substitution with a coconut-fatty quaternary ammonium reagent containing a propylene-oxide-derived hydroxypropyl linker. Collagen protein is the dominant mass contributor.

In plain English

Animal-derived collagen protein broken into smaller pieces and modified with a coconut-derived, positively charged group so it clings better to hair. Used as a hair- and skin-conditioning ingredient.

CosIng definition: 2-Hydroxy-1-propanaminium, N,N-dimethyl-N-(coco-alkyl)-, 3-hydrolyzed collagen derivs., chlorides

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References

1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
2COCODIMONIUM HYDROXYPROPYL HYDROLYZED COLLAGEN. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
3COCODIMONIUM HYDROXYPROPYL HYDROLYZED COLLAGEN. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=COCODIMONIUM%20HYDROXYPROPYL%20HYDROLYZED%20COLLAGEN