How we scored it
How it’s made
Where it comes from
Made by esterifying glycerin with caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) fatty acids fractionated from coconut or palm-kernel oil. This is the standard commercial cosmetic route; no petrochemical alternative is used.
The industrial synthesis of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride involves the esterification of glycerol with caprylic acid (octanoic acid) and capric acid (decanoic acid). This process typically occurs under elevated temperatures, often ranging from 180°C to 250°C, in the presence of a catalyst.
Common catalysts employed include strong acids like sulfuric acid (H2SO4) or p-toluenesulfonic acid (PTSA), or heterogeneous catalysts such as metal oxides or ion-exchange resins. The reaction is an equilibrium-driven process, and to maximize the yield of the triglyceride, water, a byproduct of the esterification, is continuously removed, often via azeotropic distillation using a solvent like toluene or by operating under vacuum.
Following the esterification, the crude product undergoes purification steps to remove unreacted fatty acids, glycerol, catalyst residues, and any byproducts. This typically involves neutralization of residual acidity, washing with water, and vacuum distillation to isolate the desired Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, ensuring a high purity product suitable for cosmetic applications. The final product is a clear, colorless to pale yellow liquid with a very mild odor.
In plain English
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetics, often described as a "fractionated coconut oil" derivative. It's essentially a re-esterified form of coconut or palm kernel oil, specifically designed to be a light, non-greasy emollient. This means it helps to soften and smooth the skin by forming a protective barrier that reduces moisture loss.
Chemically, it's made by combining glycerol (a simple alcohol) with two specific fatty acids: caprylic acid (an 8-carbon fatty acid) and capric acid (a 10-carbon fatty acid). These fatty acids are extracted from natural sources like coconut oil. The process involves breaking down the original oils and then rebuilding them into this specific triglyceride structure. This results in an ingredient that is highly stable, has a long shelf life, and is compatible with most cosmetic formulations, making it a versatile choice for moisturizers, serums, and makeup.
CosIng definition: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is the mixed triester of glycerin and caprylic and capric acids.
References
- 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
- 2CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
- 3CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC%20TRIGLYCERIDE