Why the score varies
This ingredient is made commercially by more than one route, and ISO 16128 scores the feedstock actually used. Without a supplier certificate of origin the value cannot be claimed.
| Route | Feedstock | NOI | Share | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| petrochemical succinic acid arm | vegetable glycerin and C8/C10 fatty acids; maleic anhydride succinic acid | 0.79 | ~65% | only the 101.1 Da succinic arm is petrochemical |
| fermentation succinic acid arm | vegetable glycerin and C8/C10 fatty acids; bio-based succinic acid | 1.00 | ~35%, growing |
How we scored it
Where it comes from
Vegetable glycerin is esterified with coconut or palm-kernel-derived caprylic and capric acids and with succinic acid. Succinic acid has historically been made from petrochemical maleic anhydride, but a growing share is now fermented from glucose.
In plain English
An emollient ester that gives creams a light, silicone-like skin feel. Most of it comes from coconut or palm-kernel fatty acids and plant glycerin, blended with succinic acid whose plant or petroleum origin varies by supplier.
CosIng definition: 1,2,3-Propanetriol, triesters with decanoic, octanoic and butanedioic acids
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References
- 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
- 2CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC/SUCCINIC TRIGLYCERIDE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
- 3CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC/SUCCINIC TRIGLYCERIDE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC/SUCCINIC%20TRIGLYCERIDE