Database/Emollient/C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate
Route-dependent · ISO 16128

Is C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate natural?

It depends. 12-Hydroxystearic acid (castor oil) and stearic acid are natural; the long C18-38 alkyl alcohol may be oleochemical or Fischer-Tropsch synthetic wax, so the value depends on alcohol source.

INCI nameC18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate
CAS222722-18-1
FunctionEmollient · Emulsion Stabilising
FeedstockMade from castor-oil-derived 12-hydroxystearic acid esterified with stearic…

Why the score varies

This ingredient is made commercially by more than one route, and ISO 16128 scores the feedstock actually used. Without a supplier certificate of origin the value cannot be claimed.

RouteFeedstockNOIShareNotes
oleochemical/Guerbet very-long-chain alcoholvegetable fatty alcohols, chain-extended1.00~60%
Fischer-Tropsch synthetic wax alcoholGTL/petrochemical synthetic wax alcohol0.60~40%
Ask your supplier. A batch-specific certificate of origin or bio-based carbon test (ASTM D6866) settles which route applies.

How we scored it

12-hydroxystearic + stearic acid ester core natural (~549 Da); C18-38 alkyl ester alcohol route-dependent: oleochemical Guerbet ~1.0 vs Fischer-Tropsch wax ~0.6; dominant route assumed natural.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

Where it comes from

Made from castor-oil-derived 12-hydroxystearic acid esterified with stearic acid, then esterified with a C18-38 fatty alcohol. That alcohol is commonly chain-extended vegetable fatty alcohol but can be Fischer-Tropsch synthetic wax alcohol.

In plain English

A thick, wax-like conditioning ingredient that helps creams and lotions keep their texture and stay stable. It is built from plant-derived fatty acids related to castor oil, joined to a very long fatty alcohol that may come from plants or from synthetic wax.

CosIng definition: Octadecanoic acid, 12-(12-hydroxy-1-oxooctadecyloxy)-, C18-38-alkyl esters

Natural alternatives with the same function

Acacia Dealbata Flower Wax 100% natural origin

A soft wax from mimosa flowers used to condition skin and add emollience. It is derived directly from…

 Acrocomia Aculeata Seed Butter 100% natural origin

A solid plant fat obtained from the seeds of the macauba palm, a South American tree, used to…

 Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract 100% natural origin

An extract made from kiwi fruit, used in cosmetics as a skin-conditioning and softening ingredient. Comes directly from…

 Actinidia Chinensis Seed Oil 100% natural origin

A plant oil pressed from kiwi seeds, used to soften and condition skin. It's a natural vegetable oil…

 Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract 100% natural origin

An extract of baobab fruit, from the African baobab tree. Used as an emollient to soften and smooth…

 Adansonia Digitata Oil 100% natural origin

A rich vegetable oil pressed from the baobab tree's fruit pulp and leaves. Used to soften and condition…

References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2C18-38 ALKYL HYDROXYSTEAROYL STEARATE. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  3. 3C18-38 ALKYL HYDROXYSTEAROYL STEARATE. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=C18-38%20ALKYL%20HYDROXYSTEAROYL%20STEARATE