Database/Skin Conditioning/Butyroyl Pentapeptide-24
Route-dependent · ISO 16128

Is Butyroyl Pentapeptide-24 natural?

It depends. The five amino acids are natural; the butyroyl cap is natural when the butyric acid is fermented and petrochemical when it is made from propylene, so the value depends on the supplier, as for Ethyl Butyrate.

INCI nameButyroyl Pentapeptide-24
FunctionSkin Conditioning
FeedstockDominant route: peptide synthesis from fermentation-derived amino acids,…

Why the score varies

This ingredient is made commercially by more than one route, and ISO 16128 scores the feedstock actually used. Without a supplier certificate of origin the value cannot be claimed.

RouteFeedstockNOIShareNotes
Fermentation butyric acidFermentation-derived amino acids; butyric acid from sugar fermentation1.00not published
Oxo butyric acidFermentation-derived amino acids; butyric acid from propylene by oxo chemistry0.89not published
Ask your supplier. A batch-specific certificate of origin or bio-based carbon test (ASTM D6866) settles which route applies.

How we scored it

Sequence not given; assume pentapeptide ~560 Da (natural amino acids) + butyroyl C4H7O 71 Da. Fermented butyric acid: 630 / 630 = 1.00; oxo butyric acid: 559 / 630 = 0.89.
What counts. ISO 16128-2 scores the atoms that remain in the final ingredient. Reagents, solvents, catalysts and protecting groups used during manufacture leave no mass behind and are not counted.

Where it comes from

Dominant route: peptide synthesis from fermentation-derived amino acids, then acylation with oxo-process butyric acid. Alternative: fermentation-derived butyric acid, which is not commercially significant at this scale.

In plain English

A short chain of five amino acids with a butyric acid group attached, used to condition skin. The amino acids come from fermentation or protein hydrolysis. Commercial butyric acid is mostly made from petrochemical propylene, though it can also be fermented.

CosIng definition: Butyroyl Pentapeptide-24 is the product obtained by the reaction of butyric acid and Pentapeptide-24

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References

  1. 1ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017 — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. ISO, Geneva.
  2. 2BUTYROYL PENTAPEPTIDE-24. CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database. ec.europa.eu/cosing ↗
  3. 3BUTYROYL PENTAPEPTIDE-24. CosIng u2014 European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/search?search=BUTYROYL%20PENTAPEPTIDE-24